© Copyright by Kazimierz Wielki University Press, 2017. All Rights Reserved. http://geography.and.tourism.ukw.edu.pl
Przemysław Charzyński1, Agnieszka Łyszkiewicz1, Monika Musiał2
1 Nicolaus Copernicus University in Toruń, Faculty of Earth Sciences, Department of Soil Science and Landscape Management, Toruń, Poland; e-mail: pecha@umk.pl
2 School Complex No. 33, Bydgoszcz, Poland
Portugal as a culinary and wine
tourism destination
Abstract: The culinary tradition is always part of the culture of a given nation. On the other hand, traveling is always
associated with a desire to learn about the customs of various ethnic groups where food is an integral part of a trip. Culi-nary traditions and products play an increasingly important role in the development of tourism. Many tourism products are based on exploring the culinary wealth. It can be said that national and regional cuisine constitute one of the main tourism values.
The aim of this work is to present the resources essential for the culinary tourism in Portugal. First of all, the authors focused on the characteristics of Portuguese cuisine. The particular attention has been paid to its uniqueness and specific-ity which distinguish it from other Mediterranean countries. The paper also considers the issue of knowledge of tourists about the gastronomic culture of Portugal and popularity of Portuguese foods and drinks in Poland.
Keywords: culinary tourism, enotourism, wine tourism, Portugal, Portuguese cuisine
1. Introduction
The culinary tradition is an important part of cultural heritage. More and more often, the cuisine plays an important role in the promo-tion of a given region. It is due to the diversity and specificity of typical food products and dishes in a region (Jędrysiak, 2008). The culi-nary tourism is becoming increasingly popular among tourists. People who visit other coun-tries are willing to try new dishes and check what characterizes the cuisine and how it is different from their native one. In a number of typically agricultural regions, it was noticed that the potential of tourism development was based on regional products (Boyne et al., 2003, Orłowski and Woźniczko, 2011). In this way, Portugal has also been developing its tourism
marketing services. After joining the European Union, Portugal has gained the ability to create the appeal and originality of the place of origin for traditional culinary products. Just as it is the case in other European countries, for instance in Poland (Charzyński et al., 2015a; 2015b). The availability of these products for the tourist trade, catering and agritourism contributes to the development of many regions in Portugal (Tibério and Abreu, 2005). The tourists’ interest in the cuisine of visited countries also allows the preservation and maintenance of traditio-nal recipes and culinary tradition.
The aim of this paper is to present Portugal as a culinary tourism destination.
2. Characteristics of the country
Portugal is the westernmost country of mai-nland Europe. Both, Portugal and Spain are situated on the Iberian Peninsula. The present
territory of Portugal has existed since 1249. The republic also holds sovereignty over the Atlantic archipelagos of the Azores and
Made-ira, both are autonomous regions with their own regional governments. At present, the area of Portugal and its archipelagos is 92 389 km2. Compared to other European countries, Portugal is a small country and its population accounts for 2.1% of all European populations.
Much of the territory is covered with moun-tains and uplands. The highlands are situated mainly in the northern and middle parts of Portugal. Sierra da Estrela – the greatest range of mountains, is part of the Sistema Central. The lowlands are situated in the south, by the Sado and Tag River. Apart from the lowlands, there are also two great plains: Alentejo – situ-ated from 300 to 500 m a.s.l., and Algarve with two mountain ranges: Serra de Monchique and Serra de Caldeirao. The population of Portugal is mostly settled along the coast (Małkowski, 2006).
Although most soils in Portugal are not fer-tile, fertile alluvial soils can be found in river valleys, for instance in the Douro Valley. Most of the land is agricultural with harmonious landscapes formed by vineyards, olive groves and almond trees. The natural plant commu-nities are formed by forests. Oak, beech, pine forests of north highlands are best preserved. The southern part of the country is rich in grassland with patches of evergreen oaks: holm (Quercus ilex) and cork (Quercus suber).
The agricultural tradition in Portugal reflects the structure in economy. Until the 1970s, Portugal was a typical agricultural coun-try that benefited from its colonies. The present economy has changed since Portugal joined the European Union. This was associated with the modernization of agriculture, industry and transport infrastructure. It is also worth
men-tioning that nowadays the main and most pro-fitable economy sectors are services (especially tourism) which represent 72% of GDP. The agriculture, forestry and fishery represent only 2.3% of Portugal GDP – Value Added (Agri-culture, value added (% of GDP), World Bank Data).
Portugal is one of the most ethnically homo-geneous European countries. Ethnic Portugu-ese constitute 98% of the whole population of the country.
The Portuguese are considered to be a Medi-terranean nation, even though their country is situated closer to the Atlantic Ocean. The coun-try is culturally rich and diverse. Discoveries in the New World as well as the nearby nations, such as the Moors and the Spaniards, had the greatest impact on the cultural diversity. This is reflected in the material and intangible heri-tage. There are 15 Portuguese inscriptions on the UNESCO list. Two of them are regions which specialize in growing grapevine – Alto Douro and Pico. The others are: an old square in Guimarães, Alcobaca Monastery, Christ Monastery in Tomar. One of the most popular and associated with Portugal phenomena is Fado music. Fado appeared in the early 19th century in Lisbon and probably has its origin in the port areas of Alfama, Mouraria and Bairro Alto (http://whc.unesco.org/en/statesparties/ pt). Moreover, Azulejos – decorative and usu-ally blue ceramic tiles, are easily associated with Portugal. The most beautiful Azulejos can be seen in churches, monasteries, and palaces. They are also ornaments on houses or trade centres. The tiles were imported to Portugal from the Spanish Moors at the beginning of the 16th century (www.museudoazulejo.pt).
3. Tourism in Portugal
Portugal has approximately 1 million beds, most of them located in the most popular tourism regions, for instance Algarve, Lisbon, Madeira and the Azores. The largest percentage of accommodation facilities in 2008 and 2009 were respectively: hotels, camping sites, youth hostels and hostels. In 2014, hotel accommo-dation activity hosted 15.0 million guests and 43.5 million overnight stays, corresponding to increases of 12.6% and 11.0% respectively. The
United Kingdom was the main inbound market (24.2% of the overnight stays from non-resi-dents) and presented 9.5% growth. Germany and Spain, with the contribution of 13.5% and 11.1%, also presented a positive evolution (7.6% and 15.4%, respectively). In 2007, the largest percentage of tourists came to Portugal from Spain (21%), the UK (19%) and France (15%) (www2.unwto.org/en/country/portu-gal). In 2014, the local accommodation hosted
2.0 million guests (+23.2%), which originated 4.3 million overnight stays (+20.5%). Results from camping sites in 2014 showed a relative stability, with very small increases in capacity on offer (+0.5% corresponding to 185.5 thou-sand allocations) and overnight stays (+0.4% corresponding to 5.6 million). Holiday camps and youth hostels accounted for a declining evolution, with 6.5% reduction in the number of beds available and 13.1% less overnight stays (708.7 thousand) (Estatísticas do Turismo, 2014).
The size of the tourist traffic has been posi-tively influenced by the well-developed trans-port infrastructure. It consists of a network of comfortable roads and highways, and air
con-nections. In Portugal, there are 5 major airports located in the main cities of Portugal. They are: Lisbon, Porto, Faro and the two other situated outside the mainland: Funchal in Madeira and Ponta Delgada in the Azores.
There is no doubt that the natural condi-tions, a wealth of monuments and the level of development of tourism infrastructure have contributed to the fact that Portugal is frequ-ently visited by tourists. Portugal can also offer a wealth of culinary culture. An increasing number of tourists worldwide are interested in the culinary dimension of their trips (Global Report on Food Tourism, 2012). Undoubtedly, the Portuguese qualities contribute to the deve-lopment of the culinary tourism.
4. Portuguese cuisine
Portuguese cuisine as well as Portugal culture is rich and diverse. In terms of climate and geographical location, it can be compared to the cuisine of the Mediterranean countries, especially the Spanish one. Despite the fact that both Portuguese and Spanish cuisines use the same basic ingredients such as pork products, rice, leguminous plants, olive oil, garlic, food preparation techniques are typical for Portugu-ese cuisine only. The greatest geographic disco-veries had a huge impact on the Portuguese cuisine. Spices imported from Asia, Africa and South America has distinguished the cuisine from other national European cuisines (Luard, 2004).
The beginning of the Portuguese cuisine dates back to the ancient times and the inva-sions. Probably the Romans were one of the first nations but not the last one that invaded Portuguese territories in the 4th century BC. They added to the Portuguese menu such vege-tables as garlic and onion, which are still the main ingredients of almost every dish. Moreo-ver, they also started to grow wheat, olive trees and grapevines. It is believed that the Romans were the forerunners of the first vineyards in the Alentejo Valley.
From the 7th to 12th century, the Iberian Peninsula (except the northern part) was occu-pied by the Moors, who had a great impact on the cuisine. They were the precursors of growing rice, citruses (mainly oranges and
lemons), fig, almond and apricot trees. At sent, the influence of the Arabic cuisine is pre-sent in the preparation of egg desserts as well as in the tradition of cultivating fig and almond trees.
The next period in the Portuguese cuisine started with geographic discoveries, which had a great impact on the diversity of Portuguese cuisine. The first sea travels during the rules of Henry the Navigator, led to the African shore exploration. As a result, unknown products such as coffee, pepper and peanuts were impor-ted. In 1498, Vasco da Gamma – a Portuguese sailor, reached the Indian shore. It enabled an import of exotic goods such as fruit and spices (black pepper, saffron, cinnamon, coriander, curry). At the same time, in 1500, Portuguese sailors went west where they discovered and subsequently colonized Brazil. Moreover, they started to import products such as e.g. cane sugar and pineapples (Luard, 2004).
Modern Portugal is divided into 10 regions, which share the same history, geography, cul-ture and cuisine. The regional cuisines use plants and spices which grow in particular areas. In the mountains, meat of hares, goats, partridges, or fish is prepared in many different ways. In the seaside regions, mainly seafood dishes are prepared.
In Portugal, there is also an old tradition of cheese making. In many regions, cheeses are made according to the old artisanal
prescrip-tions. Twelve types of cheese are included on the list of protected designations based on their origin (Protected Designation of Origin, PDO) (Falces, 2001).
The region located in the north, which bor-ders with Galicia, is Minho. The name comes from a river flowing through the area. The region is mountainous with wild and beautiful landscapes typical for the north-east mountain ranges – Serra do Gerres and Serra da Peneda. River and sea fish dishes are typical in this region, for instance arroz de lampreia – lamprey with rice and sapateira gratinada – baked crabs. Some of the local delicacies are considered to be typical Portuguese dishes, e.g. bacalhau. Another popular dish is sarrabulho – meat dish served as cured meat or a fricassee. Bean and cabbage are the most frequently used vegetab-les. They are used to make caldoverde soup or one-pot soup with meat, for instance feijo. The most popular dessert is roasted rice with fruit, fruit preserves or toucinho-do-ceu – egg cream roasted with almonds (Luard, 2004).
Another Portuguese region bordering with Galicia is Tras-os-Montes, which means “behind the mountains”. It is scarcely populated and the most mountainous and isolated region on the Iberian Peninsula. The regional cuisine reflects the harsh living conditions. Meat is the main ingredient of almost every dish. Meat of rabbits, hares and partridges is ofted used. The most popular is a bloody sausage – alheiras from Mirandela, or meat pancakes – folar de carne from Chaves. Chestnuts are used to make soup – sopa de castanha or desserts, for instance bolo
de castanhas. Many desserts contain almonds.
Moreover, nogados – nougat is also popular (Luard, 2004). Queijo de Cabra Transmontano is a hard, long-ripening (about 60 days), white cheese made from goat milk. Queijo de Serra
Estella is an exquisite cheese which comes from
pastures located at an altitude of almost 2000 m a.s.l. The cheese is creamy and buttery. Because of its consistency, it is usually eaten with a spoon. Terrincho cheese from the same region also has a creamy consistency (Falces, 2001).
The Beira region occupies the north-central part of the border between Portugal and Spain up to the Atlantic coast. The region consists of three subregions: Beira Alta, Beira Baixa and Beira Litoral. The first two subregions are mountainous, and the third one is a lowland
situated by the shore. It is the poorest Portu-guese province. The most typical dishes are
sopa de feijao frade – bean soup, trutas de asca-beche – pickled trout, or cabrito assado –
roa-sted goat. The most popular desert is doce de
castanha – chestnut preserves. The Beira region
is famous for making traditional cheese. Queijo
de Ovelha – hard and piquant, made from goat’s
milk. Queijo picante de Beira Baxia – semi-hard cheese, intensive in taste, very salty, made form sheep’s and goat’s milk. Queijo amarello de Beira
Baxia – made from mixed milk, old cheese with
delicate taste and buttery consistency. Cabreiro – soft cheese made in this region, valued for its fresh taste, made from goat’s milk (Falces, 2001).
The name of Alentejo came from Alem Tejo, which means “behind Tag”. Climate of Alentejo is dry with high air temperatures. It is an exten-sive lowland agricultural region where farmers grow mainly wheat. Alentejo is also famous for the production of excellent fruits. The most popular are sugar plums from Elvas. Pigs are bred in a traditional way. Porcos de montado are descendants of wild herds. They are fed on chestnuts, hence their meat is of high qua-lity and the best for the production of quaqua-lity ham. Oak forests are also a place where truffles (spring variety) are collected. The cuisine of the region is less diverse compared to other parts of Portugal. The most popular dishes are: carne de
porco a Alentejana – a dish made of pork and
mussels, or acorda a Alentejana – soup made of bread, with oil and garlic. The region is also famous for great honey. The most delicious desserts are made of almonds, nuts, honey and eggs, such as pasteis de Santa Clara. There are also specific kinds of savoury cheeses produ-ced. One of them is Queijo de Nisa – a semi--hard cheese made from raw sheep’s milk. Evora is hard and pungent cheese made from sheep’s milk. Nisa cheese is made in the northern part of the region. It is made from goat’s milk. The taste of the cheese is unique because of a spe-cific ingredient – cardo – an extract of thistle (Falces, 2001).
Ribatejo is the most central of the
traditio-nal provinces of Portugal, situated north-east of Lisbon, crossed by the Tagus River. Its territory constitutes a low-lying fields and meadows with fertile soils. Although today most of the people live on the industry, the region is known for its
cattle production. This is the reason why the regional cuisine is distinguished by delicious cured meats and other meat dishes. The most valuable meat product of the region is veal, which is the main ingredient of the dish called
couco com vitela assada. Other popular kinds
of meat are, for instance costillas de cabrito – goat cutlets, perdizes com molho de vinho – par-tridge in wine, or pato com azeitonas – duck with olives. It is also a great region for growing vegetables, which are added to soups together with leguminous plants, for instance sopa de
Pedra. The rich and fertile land is also famous
for sweets such as pao-de-lo – sponge cakes, or
sopa dourada – Christmas cream.
Algarve is a region situated in the
southernmost part of Portugal. The climate there is hot and dry. The beautiful beaches in the region are very popular among tourists. The Moors had the greatest impact on the regional cuisine. The dishes consist mainly of seafood, fish, etc. The most popular dish is cataplana de
mariscos – meat with seafood. The name comes
from a copper pan in which it is prepared. Due to its location in the Atlantic region, it is famous for fishery and fish processing, mainly tuna and sardines. Caldeirada (Fig. 1A) is a flagship one--pot dish made from fish and seafood (popular also in other coastal regions). Carapaus
ani-mados – a small fish with olive oil, garlic and
onion, as well as arroz de lingueirao – stewed rice with molluscs and vegetables are also popular dishes. The hot climate favours the cul-tivation of citrus fruits, bananas and almonds, figs and dates. They are ingredients of desserts, for instance Morgado and dom Rodrigo (Falces, 2001).
Duoro is a region situated in the northern
part of Portugal. It includes the Douro Valley, which extends from the border with Spain to the Atlantic coast. It is the most important region of Portugal in terms of viticulture, having numerous vineyards growing on the slopes of the valley. Porto is a large fishing port, a bit different from the rest of the region. This way the fresh fish and seafood is delivered. The typical dishes of the region are popular in the whole country. They are: bacalhau – codfish prepared in many different ways, sardinhas
suadas – steam-cooking sardines, or caldo verde – cabbage soup. Leitao assado from
Bair-rady – a roasted piglet is a typical dish of the region. The desserts from this region are made from hazel nuts, pine nuts, raisins and honey, and they include for instance sonchos cookies.
Estremadura is a seaside region where the
capital of Portugal, Lisbon, is located. The cosmopolitan city has an easy access to dishes from other regions and those which came from ex-colonies. Bacalhau or sopa de pure de
mariscos – minced seafood soups are typical
fish and meat dishes of the region and popu-lar in the whole country. The grilled sardines – sardinha assada are thought to be the local specialty. The province Estremadura is situated along the peninsula north of Lisbon. It delivers all the necessary cooking ingredients to the capital city. The most significant accent of the regional cuisine, known in the whole Portugal, is piri-piri – spicy sauce made from
malagu-eta peppers, which used to be imported from
colonies. In the cafes (pasticcerii), the popular cheese cakes from Sintra are sold (Queijadas
de Sintra). Pasteis de fejau and pastel de nata in
Lisbon they are known as pastel de Belem (Fig. 1B).
The largest island, located south of the conti-nental Portugal is Madeira. The landform featu-res, subtropical climate and volcanic soil make the place perfect for growing flowers (which the island is famous for), as well as vegetables, sugar cane, and tropical fruits. No inhabitants were on the island. This is the reason why the influence of culinary mainland Portugal is obvious. On the other hand, the New World had a greater impact on the Madera cuisine than on other Portuguese regions. The sweet potatoes, which were imported here, became a very important ingredient of many dishes. One of the best known and popular Madeiran specialities is bolo do caco – white bread made from sweet potatoes, garlic and coriander. The beef dishes, for instance picado – with garlic, chili pepper and chips, are prepared here as well as in the whole country. The most popu-lar soup is sopa de trigo – made from grains of wheat, white beans, pumpkin, sweet potatoes, and salty pork. The Madeiran cuisine is rich in many different kinds of fish and seafood. The dishes made of these products are popular on the continental part of the country. Moreover, the deep-sea fish called espada with its delicate meat is popular in Madeira only. Lapas are served as snacks. They are limpets roasted with garlic. The most popular desserts are pudim de
papaia and marachuia – puddings with tropical
fruits. Bolo do mel is a typical gingerbread style cake baked with mel de cana sacarinaa – sugar cane syrup.
Another region of Portugal is a group of nine islands situated in the Central Atlantic. The Azores remained uninhabited until the colonization. Every island has its own, a bit dif-ferent cuisine. The climate enables the growth of pineapples for which the islands are famous. The wide and natural pasturages enable the animal breeding. The specific cattle breed is the Azorean cow which produces delicious milk and its meat is believed to be of a high quality beef. Terciera – one of the inhabited islands is famous for beef stew seasoned with mint and chilly. The typical Azorean dishes are: inhames
fritos – fried manioc, couves de barca – beef
goulash served with kale, and tortas de erva do
calhau – seaweeds fried with eggs and
vege-tables. It is characteristic that spices are used in the Azores more abundantly than in the other parts of Portugal. Cinnamon and cloves are added to meat dishes, soup and desserts. Cheese puddings with eggs and butter as well as cookies with almonds, walnuts and spices, such as boras de mel are the most favourite and popular sweets (Luard, 2004). The cheese made of pure cow’s milk – Queijo São Jorge – comes from the Azores. It is made from unpasteurized milk and the process of ripening lasts from 30 to 60 days. Its name comes from the São Jorge Island where the cheese is produced. The Pico Island is famous for producing Queijo do Pico – cheese made of cow’s milk with the addition of goat’s milk. The cheese is salty with characte-ristic aroma (Falces, 2001).
5. Characteristics of wine regions and the role of wine in Portuguese
cuisine
Portugal is a country which belongs to the Mediterranean culture. Its essential features are the Mediterranean diet and wine (www. unesco.org/culture/ich/en/RL/mediterranean--diet-00884). It was inscribed on the Represen-tative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2013. The culture of growing grapevine and making wine has always played an important role. The wine probably came from Phoenicia in the 10th century BC. Next, the Greeks started to grow grapevines and developed winemaking. The Celts and
Ibe-rians introduced new varieties of grapevine as well as cooperage. The greatest impact on the wine culture had the Romans through cre-ation of the trade trails and the wine market. In the 19th century, the wine was again one of the axes of the Portuguese economy. In 1758, one of the first wine-producing regions in the world, Região Demarcada do Douro, came into existence thanks to Marquis of Pombal, in the Douro Valley (Lopes, 2015). Furthermore, the Douro Valley Wine Region (Douro Vinhateiro) and the Pico Island Wine Region (Ilha do Pico
Vinhateira) were inscribed on the UNESCO
World Cultural and Natural Heritage (http:// whc.unesco.org/en/statesparties/pt).
Vine growing and wine production and in Portugal deserve a dominant place in the Portu-guese economic and social landscape (Panzone and Simões, 2009). The country is one of the top world wine exporters. The rise in sales has been observed since the beginning of the
pre-sent century. In 2015, Portugal was the world’s seventh largest wine exporter. The country recorded a solid increase in sales as a leader in wine export at the beginning of the cen-tury (www.rp.pl/artykul/1129315-Rekordowe- wplywy-Portugalii-z-eksportu-wina.html). The Portuguese wine is exported to the European Union countries but also to overseas markets
(www.viniportugal.pt/forum-anual-vinhos-de-Table 1. Characteristics of assorted indigenous grape varieties grown in Portugal
(Sources: Correia, 1981; Lopes, 2015; www.winesofportugal.com/en/wine-and-grapes/grape-varieties/; www.vi-netowinecircle.com/en/varieties/)
White varieties Red varieties
Name and characteristics Main growing areas Name and characteristics Main growing areas
Alvarinho
intense aromas of lime, mango, passion fruit and other tropical fruits
Vinho Verde, the Minho
river valley Alfrocheiro Pretospicy and floral aromas, blackberry, tannic
primarily in Dão DOC and Alentejano VR
Arinto | Pedernã
refreshing acidity, often with a mineral quality, gen-tle flavours of apple, lime and lemon
in most wine regions; in Vinho Verde coun-try, known by the name Pedernã;
valued especially in DOC Bucelas
Touriga national
intense flavours, both floral and fruity – bla-ckcurrants, raspberries – with complex hints, also of herbs and liquorice
northern origin (Douro, Dão), spread across the country – cultivated in the south in Algarve and Alentejo, in the west in Ribatejo/Tejo and Setúbal regions
Loureiro
fresh and refreshing, floral--citrus notes
mainly in Vinho Verde
but also in other regions Bagaflavours of berries and black plums and hints of coffee, hay, tobacco and smoke
originating in Bairrada, also common elsewhere in Beiras, including Dão
Moscatel
intense aroma of orange blossoms with the honey flavour and hints of coffee and caramel
Península de Setúbal Castelão
pronounced fruity aroma of blackcurrant, preserved plums and forest fruits
commonly planted grapes in the south of Portugal; especially popular in the regions of Tejo, Lisboa, Península de Setúbal and Alentejo
Encruzado
delicate aromas of roses and violets, light citrus notes, often mineral notes (flint); while ageing it takes on hints of pine nuts, hazelnuts and resins
restricted to DOC Dão
only Trincadeira | Tinta Ama-rela
when young its aroma carries notes of ripe plums; later raspberry notes tempered by herby, peppery, spicy, floral com-plexity
Alentejo, Douro, Tejo
Fernão Pires
flavours of roses and other flowers, lemon, oranges, tangerines
mainly in Bairada, Tejo, Setúbal as well as in Douro, Dão, Alentejo
Tinta Roriz | Aragonês1 aromas of plums and forest fruits, developing into new complexes with ageing
Alentajo, Douro and Tejo. It probably originates from Asturia, Spain
1 Tempranillo in Spain, the Portuguese know it by two different names depending on the region: Aragonês and Tinta Roriz (name used in the Dão and Douro regions).
-portugal-2015). The share of wine exports in European markets in 2015 increased to 55.5% compared to the previous year; for non-Euro-pean countries it was 44.5%. Taking the value of wine export into consideration, France is the largest importer of Portuguese wine. Angola is a leader when it comes to the amount of impor-ted wine (407 790 hl). Whereas, Canada gets most wines from the average price regiments. In 2012, Poland was the sixteenth largest importer of Portuguese wines. From 2001 to 2010, the import increased by 47% (Machado, 2015).
Due to the number and diversity of local grape varieties, Portugal should also be consi-dered exceptional (Lopes, 2015). Characteri-stics of the most significant and most popular varieties are provided in Table 1. The vineyards are distributed throughout Portugal, because of the favourable climatic and soil conditions for growing vines. Portugal has many different wine regions. This is primarily due to all the peculia-rities of the local microclimates (Lopes, 2015). There are 14 wine regions (Fig. 2) (http://www. winesofportugal.com/en/travel-wine/wine--regions/). Eight most important regions will be described in this paper. In Portugal there are also 28 D.O.C. (Denominação de Origem Con-trolada) regions.
Vinho verde and Rios de Minho are the largest
and the northernmost wine regions of Portu-gal. They are situated in the north-western part of the border with Spain. The local grapevine varieties occupy 38 000 ha (Falces, 2001). The impact of the Atlantic climate in this part of Portugal is strong, which has a huge influence on the nature of the wine produced here. Taking this specificity into consideration, Vinho verde D.O.C. region was designated in 1908. It is the second oldest D.O.C. region in Portugal. Mainly
vinhos verdes – “green wine” is produced here.
The name refers to the freshness rather than the colour. The most appreciated and produ-ced in the largest quantities is white wine made of alvarinho, loureiro and arinto varieties. It is characterized by a slight effervescence, fresh citrus flavour. What is more, it should be drunk young (Lopes, 2015).
The Douro Valley is the oldest wine region in the world covered by the appeal D.O.C. It is situated 100 km from the Atlantic coast into the hinterland and stretches up to the border with Spain. The area of vineyards stretches in
the valley of the Douro and its tributaries. The vineyards are located on the terraces of steep slopes, which create a unique landscape (Lopes, 2015). In this region, a great number of native grapevine varieties are grown (Falces, 2001). Most of the wine is made of red varieties. The world famous Vinho do Porto originates from here. It is a fortified wine with the addition of distillate to extend the durability. Porto wine is sweet or semisweet and contains 18-22% of alcohol. It is characterized by a spicy flavour and smell of vanilla and oak. Several types of
porto is made. The production depends on the
time and method of the wine aging. The basic types are ruby – aged in bottles and tawny – aging in barrels. Wine age designations are placed on the bottles. The designation of
vin-tage port is used to mark ruby produced only
in the best years. Tawny is usually a blend of vintages, while the name colheita means tawny from a single vintage. Apart from the red wine, white porto is also produced, generally made for a mass audience (http://winicjatywa.pl/10--rzeczy-o-porto/). The wine from this region has a full taste, colour and high alcohol content. Both, dry and porto wines are made from the red varieties of tinta roriz, franca turing, turing
national, tinta Barrosa. White and sparkling
wines are mostly made of gouveio and malvasia
fina varieties. The sweet wine moscatel de douro
is produced from moscatel de galego (Lopes, 2015).
Figure 2. Major Wine regions and D.O.C.’s in conti-nental Portugal
The wine region Lisboa, which used to be called Extremadura, is situated along the Atlan-tic coast and has a width of 40 km. It stretches north from Lisbon up to Leire. The region is important both in terms of crop areas (approx. 30 000 ha) and the amount of wine produced. This area is very varied in terms of topograp-hic, geological and climatic conditions with a clear influence of the Atlantic Ocean. It is reflected in the nature of wine production. There are 9 distinguished wine appellations, for instance Bucellas – the only Portuguese white wine D.O.C. appellation (Fig. 3). It is produced mainly from arieto, fernao pires strains. The red wine is made from castello, aragonez as well as from turiga nacional – the latter popular throu-ghout Portugal. Both red and white wines from the region are light and crisp in taste. Despite the great remoteness from the capital, most of them are sold as a regional wine of Lisbon (Lopes, 2015).
The Tejo region is located between Lisbon and Alentejo regions along the Tagus river. The presence of the river influences the local cli-mate. Tejo is characterized by specific types of soils, i.e. the fertile alluvial soil – campo, lime-stone and clayey soils – bairo and less fertile
charneca (www.winesoftejo.com/tejoregion).
The D.O.C. appellation was created here on the basis of soil types. In the vineyards with a total area of 23 000 ha, many varieties of vines are cultivated. White fernao pires, red castello,
trincadeira and alicante bouschet are
traditio-nal and still popular. The first-class white wine with excellent aromatic fresh taste as well as red wine are produced here. The labels are marked “Tejo” regardless of whether it is vinho regional or D.O.C. Tejo (Lopes, 2015).
The growing region of Alentejo is located in the central-southern part of Portugal. It is the largest administrative region of Portugal. Cur-rently, there are more than 80 vineyards, the size of which reach 600 ha (www.vinhosdoa-lentejo.pt/produtores.php?id=2). The climate of Alentejo is very dry and hot, the temperatu-res reach 40°C. The region has excellent condi-tions for the production of high-quality wines. The most popular are still Portuguese varieties, such as roupeiro, antao vaz as well as arieto and
trincadeira or aragonez. Red wines from this
region are very popular in Portugal and around the world, while white wines represent a small
percentage of production. Wine bottle labels show the name of this region or Alentejano in the case of wines without D.O.C. designation (Lopes, 2015).
One of the most valued wine regions of Portugal is Setubal, previously called Terras do
Sado. The region is located near Lisbon on the
Setubal Peninsula. It consists of two regions:
Setubal and Palmela distinguished based on
different soil and climate conditions. In the area of Setubal, the crops are grown between 100 and 500 m a.s.l. The moscatel variety dominates in the vineyards (www.vinhosdapeninsuladese-tubal.pt); it is used in the production of
Mosca-tel de Setubal. It is a dessert wine that contains
approx. 17.5% of alcohol. While aging for even 20 years in barrels, it gets a complex and very intense aromas of orange blossoms, coffee and caramel (Lopes, 2015). The Palmela region covers flat areas with soils of poor fertility. The region is primarily focused on red wines, and in particular those made from the Castelão Fran-ces grape variety (http://www.viniportugal.pt/ forum-anual-vinhos-de-portugal-2015). DOC Palmela wines have to contain at least 67% of Castelão. The Wine Route of the Peninsula of Setúbal/Blue Coast (http://rotavinhospsetubal. com/) brings together wine producers, e.g. the Adega Cooperativa de Palmela (Fig. 4), local institutions and regional agents, with the goal of promoting the regional wines and also other attractions.
Algarve is the southmost region with a dry
and hot climate. The region developed in 1980 and currently the wine production is gaining in importance. The region was divided into four sub-regions: Lagos, Portimão, Lagoa and
Tavira. Most of the wines from the region are
simply signed as vinho region Algarve. The most characteristic are red wines made from Castelão and Negra mole, the young vintages of which smell blueberries and after some years they become silky and balanced. Also white wines are produced here, mainly from Arinto grapes. Due to hot summers and thus high content of sugar in grapes, very often wines from Algarve have a high content of alcohol.
Madeira is believed to be an exceptional
region because of the wine production. The wine of the same name is the second most popular and famous Portuguese wine. The wine-growing on the island has its origins
in the fifteenth century when the island was discovered by João Gonçalves Zarco. Cur-rently, the Madeira wine is made from such varieties as: sercial, verdelho, boal and
malva-sia. The flavour of Madeira wine depends on
the variety. It is the only wine that is the result of a long sea voyage in the tropical climate. Its major characteristic is storing at a tem-perature of 45˚C in tanks called estufas. It is then amplified with distillate and consequen-tly contains from 19 to 22% of alcohol, which is similar to the process of porto production.
Its quality is determined by sufficiently long aging in wooden barrels (www.vinhomadeira. pt/vinification-169.aspx). There are 4 varieties of madeira: seco – dry, meio seco – semi-dry,
meio doce – semi-sweet and doce – sweet.
Presently, the most significant producers of madeira are: Henriqes & Henriqes, Blendy’s, Fascias’s Barberito and Justino’s (http://wini-cjatywa.pl/wina-z-madery-warszawa-2015/).
The manufacturers increasingly appre-ciate the consumers’ interest in Portuguese wines. They want to reach a wider audience
Figure 4. The Adega Cooperativa de Palmela founded in 1958 (photo by P. Charzyński)
Figure 3. Quinta da Murta vineyard, Bucelas. A 27 ha wine estate, located 25 km north of Lisbon (photo by P. Charzyński)
throughout the co-marketing partnership. The example of such activity is ViniPor-tugal established in 1997. ViniPorViniPor-tugal is the Interprofessional Association of the Portuguese Wine Industry and the entity managing the brand Wines of Portugal. Its
objective is to promote the image of Portu-gal as a wine producing country. Through Viniportugal, the brand Wines of Portugal is consistently present on 4 continents and 11 strategic markets (www.viniportugal.pt/ forum-anual-vinhos-de-portugal-2015).
6. Culinary festivals
The Portuguese passion to have fun on the occa-sion of numerous festivals and common feasts has become a tourist attraction. There are many festivals which take place during the calendar year. Many of them are connected with various dishes or food products, for instance sardines, snails, chocolate. Some of the Portuguese festi-vals are derived from the traditional customs of the local population, for instance Festa de Sao
Pedro (www.festas-saopedro.pt). The
origina-lity and large size is one of the major cultural attractions of the country (Malchrowicz, 2011). A brief description of selected culinary festivals that are the most frequently visited by tourists, is presented below.
Festa da Castanha – Festival of Chestnuts
The tree-days festival is organized in late Octo-ber and early NovemOcto-ber in the town of Vinhais in north-eastern Portugal. At that time, the gastronomic chestnut competitions take place (www.cm-vinhais.pt). During the event you can taste chestnuts, dishes prepared on their basis, accompanied by jeropiga – sweet liqueur (fortified wine) (http://infolizbona.pl/jeropiga- -na-zimne-dni-w-lizbonie-i-do-pieczonych--kasztanow/).
Festival Internacional de Chocolate – Inter-national Festival of Chocolate
The three-week festival takes place every year in spring in the city of Obidos (www.facebook. com/obidoschocolate/). Every year the festival has a different theme. Participants can admire the chocolate sculptures and taste chocolate, and buy all kinds of specialties prepared with chocolate. Among others, the program also includes culinary demonstrations, culinary workshops and artistic performances. Every year, Obidos is visited by over 200 000 tourists during the festival (www.obidos.pt).
Feira de Catering de Vila do Conde – Gastro-nomic festival in Vila do Conde
Another gastronomic festival, which takes place in Vila do Conde, Portugal, is Feira de
Gastronomia de Vila do Conde. It was
organi-zed for the first time 17 years ago and is still held every year in August. It is an event where traditional Portuguese cuisine is presented, for example traditional cod dishes. In addition, a number of performances and demonstrations of traditional crafts is shown during the festival (www.gastronomia.vconde.org).
Festa do Vinho da Madeira – Madeira Wine Festival
This is one of the oldest European festivals, which dates back to the 15th century. It takes place from the 1st to the 4th September in the village of Estreito de Camara de Lobos as well as in the capital of Madeira – Funchal. The festival takes place two weeks after starting the grape harvest. In the capital of Madeira, the exhibi-tions, performances, shows of light and sound are organized (http://festasdovinhomadeira. visitmadeira.pt). The regional products are also presented. Visitors can taste the local dishes and wines of Madeira (http://festasdovinho-madeira.visitmadeira.pt/). Festa das Vindimas takes place in the village of Estreito de Câmara
de Lobos since 1963, with the presentation of
wine producers as well as various attractions (www.fregestreitodecamaradelobos.pt).
Festival de Bacalhau
The festival takes place in Ilhavo in August. The festival presents cuisine, history and region customs. The festival focuses on promoting the cod – Bacalhau. Also wines from the Bairrada region are presented and tested. The program offers attractions such as exhibitions, concerts and craft shows. In 2013, it was reported that 7.6 tons of dried salted cod were eaten and
28 000 meals were served during the festival (www.cm-ilhavo.pt/pages/1852).
Wine in Azores
The festival organized in the Azores is aimed at the promotion of wines from all over Portugal. Annually, it attracts thousands of visitors inte-rested in wines as well as dishes made of high quality meat and fishes popular in the Azores. The program of the event includes culinary competition, wine tasting and many other attractions (www.wineinazores.com/).
Festival do Marisco
The festival takes place in Olhao on the coast of
Algarve in August. It is one of the largest events
of this type, which attracts up to 60 000 tou-rists. The main theme of the festival is seafood
and fish dishes, which are prepared based on local ingredients. The festival program includes various activities, for instance concerts, demon-strations of handicrafts made by the local com-munity and presentations of innovative seafood dishes (www.cm-olhao.pt).
Festival de Caracol Saloic
It is one of the most famous festivals in Portugal. It takes place in July in Loures near Lisbon. The festival offers tastings of snail dishes prepared in many different ways, e.g. baked snail, snail fritters. As evidenced by the number of visitors and the amount of snails consumed, the events attracts more and more tourists every year. There are 12 pubs and restaurants, which take part in the event and serve snail dishes (www. cm-loures.pt).
7. Gastronomic and enotourism routes
According to the survey of the Portuguese Tou-rism Institute (IPDT), more and more interna-tional tourists visit this Iberian country and the consumption of local wine is one of the purposes of their visit. About 37% of tour representatives indicate wine as a major tourist attraction in Portugal (www2.unwto.org/en/country/portu-gal). Since 1993 the wine routes have been the most developed wine tourism practice in Por-tugal. The existing routes were presented and their strengths and limitations analysed by O.M.
Simões (2008). Recently, a marked increase in enotourism and culinary tours in Portugal has been observed. The tourists are increasingly interested in offers aimed at visiting wine regions with attractions such as: wine tasting, learning about the vineyard history or presentation of the wine production. For instance, Rota das Vinhas
de Cister is a good example of such culinary
trails (www.cvrtavora-varosa.pt/rota.asp, www. sjpesqueira.pt/pages/301) as well as a few others (Woźniczko and Orłowski, 2011).
8. Rating of Portuguese cuisine popularity
The overview of the Portuguese culinary wealth was supplemented with a survey about the tou-rists’ knowledge about the Portuguese cuisine. Two surveys were conducted. Each of them contained some standard questions about the age and gender. The first of them was to show the interest of tourists in the cuisine of Portu-gal and their culinary habits while visiting this country. The surveys were carried out at the turn of 2014/2015 in Porto, one of the most visited cities by tourists in Portugal. The survey was conducted among 120 people of different nationalities. It contained three questions: 1. How often do you eat in a restaurant/bar/
cafe during your stay in Portugal?
2. What kind of Portuguese food/drinks/des-serts did you try?
3. Is the Portuguese cuisine in your opinion tasty?
The second survey was to check the kno-wledge of Portuguese cuisine among Polish citizens as potential tourists. It was conducted in the first half of 2015 in Toruń, Poland. The study involved 120 adults. The respondents had to answer the following questions: Do you know any Portuguese food/drinks/desserts? If so, name it? and What is your source of kno-wledge of Portuguese dishes?
In the first survey, 65 women and 55 men responded. Most of them were 21-30 years
old (38%), followed by those aged 31-40 and 41-50 (who accounted for approx. 21% and 18%, respectively). As many as 22.5% of the surveyed tourists declared that they very often visit restaurants and bars during their stay in Portugal and 32.5% of the respondents dec-lared a frequent visit. Only 8% of people said that they visit restaurants very rarely. About 73% of the 120 respondents declared that they tried traditional Portuguese cuisine and were able to name at least one dish, dessert or drink. The remaining 27% of the respondents admit-ted that they did not try any of the Portuguese cuisine specialties. The most recognizable pro-duct of Portugal was porto wine. More than 25 people declared that they know and tested the drink (Fig. 5).
The tourists (19 persons) mentioned
bacal-hau as a traditional ingredient of Portuguese
cuisine and francesinha – a popular snack (13
people). Most of the tourists could not recall the specific name of the Portuguese dish they ate. In addition to the dishes already mentioned, the latter included: cataplana and caldo verde (18 people in total). The most popular dessert was
pasteis de nata (17 people), but only seven of
the surveyed people associated the coffee (some of them using even Portuguese name of Bica) as a product of Portugal. Finally, the majority of tourists (72%) declared that they enjoyed the taste of the Portuguese cuisine. On the other hand, the remaining 28% did not.
During the second survey conducted in Poland, women accounted for 54% and men for 56%. The largest percentage of the respon-dents were people aged 41-50 (27%), follo-wed by people aged 21-30 (20%) and 51-60 (17%). The question about the knowledge of Portuguese cuisine was answered negati-vely by 58% of the respondents. While 42%
Figure 5. Portuguese dishes tasted by tourists; n = 120 (Source: Witkowska, 2015)
Figure 6. Portuguese food products and dishes known by Polish respondents; n=120) (Source: Witkowska, 2015)
declared some knowledge of at least one dish or product. Among those who declared the knowledge of Portuguese dishes, the answers were mainly general. They did not relate to specific dishes but food products associated with Portugal and often mentioned seafood, sardines, bacalhau or snails and olives (Fig. 6). The most frequently mentioned was wine (86%) and seafood (74%). A small percentage of respondents were able to name not only products but also Portuguese dishes such as
pasteis de nata (best known; 16%), feijoada
or arroz doce.
The question associated with the sources of the respondents’ knowledge of culinary Por-tugal indicated they mainly read cookbooks (19%) and search the Internet (17%). A con-siderable group of respondents (13%) derived the knowledge from the Portuguese-themed products available in Polish stores. Only 6% of the respondents acquired the knowledge of Portuguese cuisine during their trips.
9. Summary
The culinary tourism refers to one of the most important elements of human life, which con-sists of preparing, eating and enjoying drinks (Buczkowska, 2008). The cuisine is an element of emphasizing the national identity, as well as regional diversity (Jędrysiak, 2008). Portugal can be described as a paradise for lovers of all forms of the cultural tourism, including the culinary one (Malchrowicz, 2009). The confir-med range of values, essential for the culinary tourism, is presented in this work. The country is usually associated with several flagship culi-nary products such as wine, bacalhau or olive
oil. However, each region offers the visitors their
traditional dishes, desserts, cheese and wine. Portugal is a country of vineyards, where a large number of indigenous varieties still occur. The centuries-old wine-making tradition has been used to create a tourism product (Nowak and Czarnecka-Skubina, 2011). Enotourism is beco-ming increasingly popular here. It is not com-mercialized like in the United States or other countries of Western Europe yet, which may be considered as an advantage. The fact that the culinary tourism is becoming more and more popular is manifested in the number of popular festivals that are organized in every part of the country. Undoubtedly they represent a value that attracts tourists. It is also worth noting that
not all of them were created as a “tourist attra-ction”. The Portuguese passion for celebration is connected with Mediterranean culture. This can be confirmed by the daily culinary habits of the Portuguese, such as celebration of dinner and visits in the patisseries. The culinary tou-rism continues to grow in Portugal. As it appe-ars from the analysis of the survey, tourists also explore the traditional, popular and typical Portuguese cuisine by visiting local restaurants, bars, cafes etc. According to the survey, porto wine was one of the most frequently mentioned products. Perhaps this is due to the location where the survey was conducted. This does not change the fact that tourists are aware that the wine is a recognizable symbol of Portugal. They want to try it and learn how it is made. The majority of Polish citizens who participated in the survey conducted in Toruń did not know any Portuguese dishes. However, some respon-dents recognized the Portuguese dishes and were able to indicate their main ingredients, such as seafood, olives and fish. Moreover, the most frequently cited sources of information were books and the Internet. A small number of respondents acquired knowledge from their own travel experience. The interest in Portugu-ese cuisine among Poles may indicate a motiva-tion for future culinary tourism travels.
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