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D
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Nat
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or Coastal and Marine Management I RIKZ
Verification set Haringvliet
October 14,1982 - October 15,1982
Project HYDRA
report
:
R
I
KZlos
-
95. 112x
Author J
.
H. Andorka Gal
September1995
Nationallnstitute
tor
Coastal&Marine ManagementTable of contents
1 Introduction 2
2 The Haringvliet area
3
3
Standard classification data set 54
Field measurements 105 References 11
6 Appendices 12
Nationallnstitule for Coastal &Marine Management
1 Introduction
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The project HYDRA was set-up by the National Institute for Coastal & Marine Management I RIKZ to provide the hydraulic input parameters for the safety analysis along the coast and in the estuaries of the Netherlands.
One part of the HYDRA project considers wave measurements (field as weil as laboratory) which are necessary for validation of numerical wave modelling.
A very interesting measurement campaign was conducted in fall 1982 in a shallow water region otf-shore the Haringvliet-sluices in the Netherlands. The field data were presented and used in several publications [1], [3],[4], which have lead to some confusion and misunderstanding of interpretation ofthe data and availability. That is why Rijkswaterstaat decided in 1994 to process and present the original wave data again and focus on the storm that took place at October 14 and 15 in 1982.This report gives a
presentation of the Haringvliet wave data 1982,and the way the standard classification of the wave data setsis available at RIKZ.
Chapter 2 gives a description of the Haringvliet area. Bathymetry,
monitoring stations and available field data will be summerized. Definitions of hydraulic parameters and classification of the files that contain the relevant data are givenin chapter 3. Chapter 4 reviews the obtained data set. Observed time histories of hydraulic parameters as weil as energy density spectra are presented in appendices.
National Institute for Coastal &Marine Management
2 The Haringvliet area
An extensive measurement campaign was conducted in fall 1982 in a coastal region off-shore the Haringvliet-sluices in the Netherlands. This region is characterized by a shallow shoal (the Hinderplaat) which falls partly dry during low tide and a region with nearly straight iso-baths offshore the shoal (see figure a).The measurements were conducted during the months September, October and November in 1982, a total of 13 weeks.
Six waveriders, one wavec buoy and two wave staffs were available during the campaign (see tabel a).The bottom depth is given in [m] NAP (Normaal Amsterdams Peil, normal Amsterdam level),this is a (mean sea) reference level.
tabel a: wave sensors
y
+
__....__A...._
--- NAP bottom depth positive+
Paris (0,0)(Franee)
x
Coordinate system Bottom depth
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wave sensor locations in the Haringvlietarea
National InstiMe for Coastal & Marine Management
3 Standard classification
data set
The data sets of the Haringvliet are available on ascii files at
Rijkswaterstaat RIKZ. The corresponding file names for each data set are:
file names
a: - GSyymmdd.sss for 1-d data (waveriders, wave staff) b: - GDyymmdd.sss for directional information data (wavee) c: - GTyymmdd.txt for texttables with wind and water level data d: -GByy.bot for the bottom file
yymmdd
=
starting period ofthe wave data set sss=
3-letter station codeInterruptions ofregistrations are skipped.
The classification of the wave data sets is as follows : ~ a: data set 1-dim.wave information
~ b: data set directional wave information
~ c: data setwind, water levels
~ d:data setbottom topography
a: data set 1-dim. wave Informatlon
row 1:
-text line (station name etc.) row2 :
-date (yymmdd)
-time (hhmmss)
-station number
-number of procession method
-reliability parameter BT
-degrees of freedom AV - number of waves AG
row3 :
-x-coordinate (Paris)
-y-coordinate (Paris)
-z-coordinate (waterdepth +NAP)
-dt (time step raw data)
-dh (height step raw data)
-df (frequency step spectrum)
-f1 (Iower boundary spectrum)
- f2
(upper boundary spectrum) - processed number of values BW-number of false values AF
-duration of single registration RD
Verificationset Haringvliet
5
format (A72)
format (218,516)
(gmt!!! Greenwich mean time) (forintemal use):
(1 - good :0 - bad)
(10 mHz spectrum resolution)
format (218,916)
[m]
[m] [cm] [0,01 s] [0,01 cm] bLHz] [mHz] [mHz]H
(raw data)H
(raw data) [minutes]National Institute torCoastal & Marine Management
row4 :
- wave height Hmax " H1/50 H1/10 H1/3 Hgem SPGH format (616) [cm] [cm] [cm] [cm] [cm] [cm] (spread) row 5: format (1315)
- 13 percent values of wave height exceedence [cm] 0,1,2,3,4,5,10,20,33,50,65,80 and 90% row6 :
- wave period Tmax
Thmax T1/3 TH1/3 Tgem SPGT format (616) [0.1 s] [0.1 s] [0.1 s] [0.1 s] [0.1 s] [0.1 s] (spread) row 7: format (1315)
- 13 percent values of wave period exceedence [0.1 s] (same as row 4)
row8 : format (218,416)
-spectral moment M-1 [cm2/!-Iz]
MO [cm2] M1 [Cm2HZ~ M2 [cm2Hz~ M4*100 [0.01cm Hz"] - spectral width Qp*10 [0.1 -] row9 : format (916)
- wave height HmO [cm]
HE3(HE10) [cm] HE2 [cm] HE1 [cm] HEO [cm] - wave period Tp [0.1 s] " Tm-10 [0.1 s] Tm01 [0.1 s] Tm02 [0.1 s] row 10:
- relative standard deviation HmO HE3 (E10) HE2 HE1
"
format (416,116)[%]
[%]
[%]
[%)
(relative standard deviation=
X
2 * 100%)L
degr.of freedom - multiplication factor, for the energy density spectrum(the energy density has to be multiplied with this factor and also with the factor 0.0001!!, energy density values in [cm2/Hz))
row 11 tlm 20 format 10(1017)
-100 spectrum values 0.01-1.00 Hz df=0.01 [cm2/Hz)
the dummy value is -999
National tnstttute tor Coastal &Marine Management
b : data set directional wave Information
row 1:
- text line (station name etc.)
format (A72)
row 2 : format (418)
- date (yymmdd) - time (hhmmss) (gmt) - station number
- degrees of freedom
AV
(10 mHz resolution)row 3 up to 27,5 mHz spectrum (30-150 mHz) : format (16,110,216)
- frequency [mHz]
- energy density [cm2/Hz]
- wave direction
[0]
true north - directional spread[0]
row 28 up to 63,10 mHz spectrum (150-500 mHz) : format (16,110,216)
-frequency [mHz]
- energy density [cm2/Hz]
- wave direction
[0]
true north - directional spread[0]
row 64 up to 78, 15 frequency ranges, each 8 parameters: - wave height Hmo
- relative standard deviation HmO - wave direction Th
- spreading of the directional distribution
- skewness """ "G1 *100
- kurtosis G2 *100
- wave length L
- mean wave period Tm01
The 15 frequency ranges are:
row 64 - total range " 65 - peak range
" 66 - low frequency range (TE3)
" 67 - middle frequency range (TE2) 68 - high frequency range (TE 1) 69 - range 1 70 - range 2 71 - range 3 72 - range 4 73 - range 5 74 - range 6 75 - range 7 76 - range 8 77 - range 9 78 - range 10 30-500 10 30-100 :100-200 :200-500 : 30-45 : 45-60 : 60-85 : 85-100 :100-125 :125-165 : 165-200 : 200-250 :250-335 :335-500
row 79 and row 80 are empty
the dummy value is -999
Verificationset Haringvliet
7
format (816) [cm] [%][0]
true north[0]
[-] [-] [m] [0.1 s] [mHz] [mHz] [mHz] [mHz] [mHz] [mHz] [mHz] [mHz] [mHz] [mHz] [mHz] [mHz] [mHz] [mHz] [mHz]National Institutetor Coastal& Marine Management
c: data set wind, water levels
Text tables contain numerical values of wind speed 0Jw), wind direction (Dir) and water levels (WL) per timestep.
Wind speed and wind direction are measured at station G77,water levels are measured at the stations G77 and E75 (see figure a and time series appendix figure
1)
.
Example tabie: row4 row 5 row6 station name---T---T---r---~---
Date Time Dir Vw WL +(NAP)---+---+---1---1---[YMD] [hrs] [Deg] [mIs] [cm]
---+---+---~---~---
821014 1500 300 12 45---+---+---~---~---
821014 1600 300 ---+---+---1---1---821015 I I I I row 1 row2 row 3column 1 column 2 column 3 column 4 column 5
Waler level
co-
I
+
NAP u_uuu - __ u
The water level is given in [cm] NAP (Normaal Amsterdams Peil, normal Amsterdam level), NAP is a (mean sea) reference level.
Wind direction 315°
-~--~l----_---
E
(90°)Definition of wind direction
National Inslilule tor Coastal&MarineManagement
d: data set bottom topography
The bottomof the Haringvlietarea is measuredin 1982.
Examplebottomfile (grid)
: I1L:
:
:
:
I:ly
·
·
·
·
·
t
···
··
·
·
t
·
·
·
·
I:lx
I:lx=l:ly
row 1-9 text lines
row 10
-
..
.
data
10
(1,1)
11 (1,7)(bottomdepth [m] NAP)
(1
,
2)
(1,3)
(1
,
4)
(1
,
5)
(1,6)
(1,8) (1,9) (1,10) (1,11) (1,12)23
(1,85) (1,86) (1,87)
(1,88)
(2,1)
(2,2)
1
% Haringvliet botlom 19822
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
% number of columns = 88 %number of rows = 117 % mesh size local x-axis = 250 m % mesh size local y-axis = 250 m--+ (M~ = 250*(88-1) =21750)
--+ (ML\y= 250*(117-1) =29000) % direction local x-axes to true north = 128.7844 degr (measured counter clock wise) % paris coordinates x= 41200.00 m y= 445600.00 m (1,1)
10
.22700E+02 .22826E+02 .22953E+02 .22920E+02 .22791E+02 .22605E+0211
.22244E+02 .21883E+02 .21614E+02 .21358E+02 .21221E+02 .21203E+02(1,1)
Nationallnstitute for Coastal&Marine Management
4 Field measurements
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When waves are entering the Haringvliet area from deep water to very shallow water (with shoals) the wave conditions are rapidly changing mainly due to depth induced breaking, shoaling, refraction and bottom friction. These effects can be seen the best in the figures 2300,0000 and 0100 (see appendix, the figure names correspond with points of time).These figures show the energy density spectra at 8 locations during the peak of the storm at October 15,0000 hours with the highest wave heights and water levels (flood). The wave height is decreasing rapidly from HmO
=
3.5 m at station WA1 (17 m water depth) to HmO=
1 m station E75 (water depth 7.5 m),behind the shoal (Hinderplaat) at station WR4 the waveheight HmO is even below 1 m.
The evolution of the energy density spectra show from deep water to shallow water a nearly constant peak frequency Tp of 8 seconds. At the inner station E75 near the Haringvliet-sluices, a smaller second peak of 3 seconds is observed. The amount of energy at this lower second peak is of the same order as the amount of energy at the outer stations (WA 1,WR2).
The low and short waves can pass the shoals, the water depth for these waves is relative large, so that depth induced breaking does not occur.
Nationallnstituto torCoastal & Marine Management
5 Ref'erences
[1][2]
[3]
[41 [5]Dingemans, M.W.,Verification of numerical wave propagation models with field measurements. CREDIZ verification Haringvliet. DELFT HYDRAULICS, 1983.
Dingemans, M.W., Surface wave propagation over an uneven bottom; Evaluation of two-dimensional horizontal wave propagation modeis, DELFT HYDRAULICS, 1985. Dingemans, M.w., Shift in characteristic wave frequency;
some spectra in wave basin and in Haringvliet region, H616,
DELFT HYDRAULICS, 1989.
Roskam, A.P., Wave data collecting forthe project 'CREDIZ evaluation' Rijkswaterstaat, 1983 (in Dutch).
Dunsbergen, O.W.,Verification set Friesche Zeegat. Rijkswaterstaat RIKZ 95-035, March 1995.
National Institute torCoastal & Marine Management
6 Appendices
The figures presented In thls appendix contaln at October 14-15,1982: Figure I time history of wind direction, wind speed at station G77 and
water levels at stations G77 and E75
Figure 0 time history of wave heights, wave periods, wave direction and the maximum energy density spectrum at station WA1.
Figure 1 time history of wave heights,wave periods and the maximum energy density spectrum at station WR1.
Figure 2 time history of wave heights, wave periods and the maximum energy density spectrum at station WR2.
Figure 3 time history of wave heights, wave periods and the maximum energy density spectrum at station WR3.
Figure 4 time history of wave heights, wave periods and the maximum energy density spectrum at station WR4.
Figure 5 time history of wave heights,wave periods and the maximum energy density spectrum at station WR5.
Figure 6 time history of wave heights,wave periods and the maximum energy density spectrum at station WR6.
Figure 7 time history of wave heights, wave periods and the maximum energy density spectrum at station E75.
Figure 8 time history of wave heights, wave periods and the maximum energy density spectrum at station HA1.
Figure O.a time evolution (time 1600 - 2300 October 14) of energy
density spectra at station WA1.
Figure O.b time evolution (time 0000 - 0700 October 15) of energy density spectra at station WA1.
Figure 1.a time evolution (time 0900 - 0430 October 14-15) of energy density spectra at station WR1.
Figure 1.b time evolution (time 0600 - 2230 October 15) of energy density spectra at station WR1.
Figure 2.a time evolution (time 1330 - 0600 October 14-15) of energy density spectra at station WR2.
Figure 2.b time evolution (time 0730 - 2100 October 15) of energy density spectra at station WR2.
Figure 3.a time evolution (time 1520 - 0620 October 14-15) of energy density spectra at station WR3.
Figure 4.a time evolution (time 0920 - 1820 October 14) of energy density spectra at station WR4.
Figure 4.b time evolution (time 1840 - 0020 October 15) of energy density spectra at station WR4.
Figure 4.c time evolution (time 0040 - 0620 October 15) of energy density spectra at station WR4.
Figure 4.d time evolution (time 0640 -1820 October 15) of energy density spectra at station WR4.
Figure 5.a time evolution (time 1330 -1800 October 14) of energy density spectra at station WR5.
Figure 5.b time evolution (time 1820 - 2310 October 14) of energy density spectra at station WR5.
Figure 5.c time evolution (time 0000 - 0320 October 15) of energy density spectra at station WR5.
National lnstitute torCoastal & Marine Management Figure 5.d Figure 6.a Figure 6.b Figure 7.a Figure 7.b Figure 7.c Figure 8.a Figure 2300 Figure 0000 Figure 0100
time evolution (time 0340-0940 October 15) of energy density spectra at station WR5.
time evolution (time 0940 - 2310 October 14) of energy density spectra at station WR6.
time evolution (time 0040 -1710 October 15) of energy density spectra at station WR6.
time evolution (time 0900 - 2100 October 14) of energy density spectra at station E75.
time evolution (time 2200 - 0500 October 14-15) of energy density spectra at station E75.
time evolution (time 0600 - 1300 October 15) of energy density spectra at station E75.
time evolution (time 1100 -1800 October 14) of energy density spectra at station HA1.
energy density spectra at 8 locations within the Haringvliet area at approximately 2300 hours at October 14,1982 energy density spectra at 8 locations within the Haringvliet area at approximately 0000 hours at October 15, 1982 energy density spectra at 8 locations within the Haringvliet area at approximately 0100 hours at October 15,1982
wind direction at station G77 350 ---I---I ---I ---I-- I I I I I , I I
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I I I I I 1 1 I 1 , I I I I I 15001600 1700 1800 1900 2000 2100 2200 2300 0000 100 200 300 400 500 600 700 time (hrs) October 14 -15, 1982 figureI
Period: 821014 - 821015
Station:
WA
1 - Haringvliet
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:
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2300
Station
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WA 1 - Haringvliet
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ty spectrum
20
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Period: 821014 - 821015
Station: WR1 - Haringvliet
waveheights
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0600
1200
1800
0000
0600
time [hhmm]
1800
1200
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15
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0000
0600
1200
1800
0000
0600
time [hhmm]
1200
1800
0000
energydensityspectrum(day
:
821015time
:
)
0000
+
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10r---.---.---.---.---~~----_.---._----~
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0.6
0.7
figure1
Pe
r
iod: 821014 - 821015
Station: WR2 - Haringvliet
wave heights
4
.----~----_.----
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----_.----
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...
+
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0
600
12
00
1800
0000
0600
time [hhmm]
1
200
1800
0000
wave periods
1
5
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1 I- -
-
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0000
1800
0000
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time [hhmm]
0
600
1
2
00
1200
1800
0000
+
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o
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-
10
+
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energydensityspectrum(day: 821015time: 0000)
1
0
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1
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.
4
0.5
f
r
equency[Hz]
0.6
0.8
figure2
Period: 821014 - 821015
Station: WR3 - Haringvliet
waveheights
4
~--~
---.
----.---
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--
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....s
+
i ++
+
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~----~--~~--_~I--~----~----~--~
0000
0600
1200
1800
0000
0600
time[hhmm]
1200
1800
0000
waveperiods
15
~--
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--
--
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~ 12
-
-
--
---
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-
1
-
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-
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~
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--~--~I----~----~----~--~
0000
0600
1800
0000
0600
time[hhmm]
1800
1200
1200
energydensityspectrum(day
:
821014time:)
+
HmO
HE10
10
r-
---,---,---.---.---.---,---,---~
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0.1
0.2
0
.
3
0.4
0.5
frequency[Hz]
0000
o
Tp
*
Tm-10
+
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[5]
0
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6
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-
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- - - -
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HE10c
E
I
Period
:
821014 - 821015
Station: WR4 - Haringvliet
wave heights
4~
---
~----~----~----~----~--~----~----~
I
c
+
+
+
+:f
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++
+
+
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+
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+ +
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+
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lTo
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~
·~~~-~~··~--~··~·~~~··~·~~·~~~t~.
0000 01600 1200 1800 0000 0600 1200 1800 0000time [hhmm]
wave periods
15
.----,
--
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---.
--
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~ 12 -- - - -_.- - - --
1
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-
- - - -
-
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6
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L- __ ~ 0000 OBOO 1200 1800 0000 0600 1800time [hhmm]
1200energydensityspectrum(day:821014time: 2310)
+
HmOo
Tp*
Tm-10+
Tm01 • Tm02 00000
.
25
.---
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-
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-
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=: 9
:...
9J!!IJ
-HE10 =0.17[m] Tp
=
2.6[5]
- - -
-
- -
- - - -
1m
-
1 0
=-
-
tfs1
-Tm01
=
3.1[5]
0.1
0
.
2
0.3
0.4
0.5
frequency[Hz]
0.6
0.7
0.8
C'!_... APeriod: 821014 - 821015
Station: WR5 - Haringvliet
wave heights
4~--~----~----~----~----~--~----~----~
I
o
...-W2 Io
E
I- - - -
- - -
- -
-
- - -
-
- - - -
- - - -
1
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+.
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+
+ +
+
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..~~: ...
O
L_
__
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0600
1200
1800
0000
0600
time [hhmm]
1200
1800
wave periods
20
~--~
--
--
~----~----~----~---.----~----~
N16
o
E
I-...-
12
o
E
1-- 8
o
...-
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4 o,I-a
a
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-
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__
~
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_L ~ L_ __ ~0000
0600
1200
1800
0000
0600
1200
1800
time [hhmm]
energy density spectrum (day
:
821014 time: 2310)
+
HmO
HE10
2
.
5.---~---~---~---~----~---~---~----~
__________
_
_
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_
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_
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=
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=
8
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3
[s]---
-
---
---
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---
--
---
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10:
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=
5.2[s]
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=
4.6[s]
N
IN
1
.
5
<
E
;;;1
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0.5
0
.
1
0.2
0.3
0.4
0.5
frequency [Hz]
0000
0000
a
Tp
*'
Tm-10
+
Tm01
•
Tm02
0
.
6
0.7
0.8
fiaurePe
riod: 821014 - 821015
Station: WR6 - Haringvliet
wave heights
4
~---,
,-
--
-.---.---.---'----~----~--~
o
~
~ 2
- -
-
- - - -
-
- - - -
-
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+
1+
-
+
-
-
- -
-
- - - -
- - - - -
-
-
-
- -
--à
E
Iwave periods
15
~
---~
----~----~---.----~----~----~--~
~ 12 - - -- --- - - -- -- - - --
1
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-
-
-
- - - -
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I-~
1~
9
--
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-
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---
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--
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0
0
00
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0
0
00
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00
1+
000
00000
o 6
-
-
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-
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-
-
-
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0
-
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-
+
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"!=-'=r
-
~
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-
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-
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f
o
T+tt+t
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t
+
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+
.
.
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3 --- ---- - - -- - -- - - --- - --
1
- - - -
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- - -
- -
- -
-0.
I-
'
OL_
~
~
~
__
~I
_L ~ L_ __ ~ 0000 0600 1200 1800 0000 0600time [hhmm]
1200 1800energy density spectrum (day: 821015 time
:
0040)
0000+
HmO HE10o
Tp*
Tm-10+
Tm01 • Tm025r-
---
--.
--
----~---~---~---.---~---~----~
4
-
---
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-
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-
---
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----
---
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-
---
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----
~~Q
-
-
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-
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_
HE10=
0.62 [m]N
~3
N <E
;;2
-w
Tp=
8.3 [s]-
- - - -
-
- - - -
-
- - - -
- -
- -
-
- - - -
- -
- -
- -
- -
-
- - - -
- -
-
- -
- - - -
1m-1 0
~
-
-1
{s1
-
-
-Tm01 = 6.3 [s]
1
Tm02 = 5.7 [s]0.2
0.7
0.1
0.3
0.4
0.5
frequency [Hz]
0.6
0.8
fiqure6
..-~ 2
----
--
--
--
---
--
--
----
---
-
1
-
- -
- - - -
-
- - - -
-
- -
-
-
- -
-
-
-
-
-
-
- -
HE10
a
E
I
Period: 821014 - 821015
Station: E75 - Haringvliet
wave heights
4~--~---'----~----~----'----'---'----~
I
a
+
~
+
+,+
++
+
+
+ +++++
!
++++++++ +++
o ° jO 0 0 0 0 0 0++++ +
+.
. • . . .
..
...
.
,..
.
OL_--~--~-L--~~~--~--~~~~--~~~~~
0000
0600
1200
1800
0000
0600
time [hhmm]
1200
1800
0000
wave periods
15
~
--
~
---.----~----~----~---'--
--
-'----~
~
12
---
-
---
-
1
- -
-
-
-
- - - -
- - -
- - - -
-
-E
1-- 1..-9
--
---
--
---
---
-
---
---
-
--
~
---
-
---
~
---
-
-
-
---
-a
'
E
09
l-
a 6
- -
-
- - - -
- - -
- - - -
- - - -
-
-
- -
,
-
- - - -
- -
- - - - -
-
- - - -
-
-
-
- -
-
-1+tt+
oOoO~
++
+
- - - -
-
EB
- -
~
- -
m
-
~~~~
_
o
-
1
- -
!_<i'JÇfr+
-
+-+T~'P
_
o
-
o
-
i:ó~~Ëil~~Cf
_!,
OL_ __ ~
~
~ __
~IL_ __~
~
L_ __ ~0000
..-IE
1-
_
30-
l-1200
1800
0600
1200
1800
0000
0600
time [hhmm]
energy density spectrum (day: 821015 time: 0000)
+
HmO
o
°Tm02
o
Tp*
Tm-10
+
Tm01
0000
1,---.---~---~---~---~---~---~---.
0.8
_
_
__
_
________________
_
____________
__
_
_
___________
~~Q
_
~
jJ~l~l
_
HE10
=0
.
3[m]
N
IN 0.6
<
E
;;;:0.4
LU
Tp=
7.7 [s]--
---
---
---
--
---
-
---
11n-10~
~
tf~
-
-
-
-
-Tm01
=
4 [s]
0
.
2
0.1
0.2
0.3
0.4
0.5
frequency [Hz]
Tm02
=
3
.
5[s]
0.6
0.7
0.8
fintIrf'Period: 821014 - 821015
Station: HA 1 - Haringvliet
wave heights
4.----,·---,----,---,----,,----,---.----,E
...
+
.
- - --- - _.- - - --- - --I--- - - ---
1
-
- -
- - - -
- -
- - - -
- -
-
-
-
- - - -
-
-+ -+
+
++
+++
o
1.
1.
0L-
__
~
__
~"~"~"L_'""_"_"~~1 __ ~
_L _L __ ~0000
0600
1200
1800
0000
0600
time [hhmm]
1800
1200
wave periods
15
~--~--
--~----~----~---,----~---r--~
~ 12
-
-
-
---
-
--
-
-
---
--
-
-
-
-
-
1
- - - -
-
-
- - - -
-
-E
~ 9 - ---- - _.-- --- -- -- - - --- - - -_
L
- - - -
-
-
- -
-o
.
E
0°
1 ~- 6 --- ---0---d?
_ - - - -
-
-
.
- - - - -
-
- - - -
-
- -
-
- - - - -
-
-~
~ °
oO+tttt
1E
"+
0+
.
1-_
3 --- -_.-- -..!++-
-
-
-
-
- - - -
-
-
1
- - -
-
-
- - - - -
- -
-
-
-
-c..
I-OL-
--~
-
----
~--~----~I~---L----~--~--~
0000
0600
1200
1800
0000
0600
1200
1800
time [hhmm]
energy density spectrum (day: 821014 time: 1800)
10
8
...
N::r:
6
-
N <E
...
4
c
-w
2
0
0
+
HmO
HE10
___
_
___
.
H
_
n.:!Q._
=:
?
::..
1~
1'!11
_
HE10
= 0
.
28[m]
0000
0000
Tp = 7.7 [s]-
--
-
--_.
-
-- - ---
-
--
-
---
--
---
--
--
---
-
-
--- -
-
-
-
--
---
----
1rrr
-
10!::
tSl
-:.
- - --
1
-Tm01
=5
.
2
[
s]
-
-
- - - -
-
- - - -
-
-
-
- - - -
-
- - -
- -
-
- - - -
- - -
TmOï- ;;
4~ë
[sï
- - -
-°
Tp*
Tm-10
+
Tm01
"
Tm02
0.1
0.2
0.3
0.4
0.5
0.7
0
.
8
frequency [Hz]
0.6
figure8
Energy density spectra (Iocation: WAVEC - Haringvliet)
day: 821014 time
:
1600
day: 821014 time: 1700
HmO =2.01 [m)
!["Άποριϰόν et μερισμός άπορων", Roger Rémondon, "Annales du Service des Antiquités de l'Egypte", 51, 1951 : [recenzja]](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAP///wAAACH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==)