T h e d is c o v e r y o f A m e r ic a g a v e a g r e a t im p e tu s to th e d y e in g o f te x tile s b y rea so n o f th e la r g e n u m b e r o f n e w d y e w o o d s w h ic h w e re d is c o v e re d in th is h e m isp h e re , e s p e c ia lly in th e W e s t In d ie s, a n d C e n tr a l a n d S o u th A m e r ic a . A m o n g th e s e w e re lo g w o o d , w h ic h , n e x t to in d ig o , so o n b e c a m e th e m o s t im p o r ta n t d y e s tu ff in u se ; fu s tic , a y e llo w w o o d ; c o c h in e a l, a v e r y im p o r ta n t red c o lo r in g m a t t e r c o n s is tin g o f th e b o d ie s o f c e rta in sm all in sects w h ic h g r o w o n th e le a v e s o f th e c a c tu s p la n t; B ra z il w o o d , also a re d d y e w o o d o f c o n s id e ra b le im p o rta n c e , a n d m a n y o th ers o f m in o r n o te .
T h e g r e a t ste p , h o w e v e r, in th e d y e in g o f te x tile fa b ric s , ca m e in th e d is c o v e r y o f th e s y n t h e t ic c o a l t a r d y es . T h is led to an in tim a te co n n e c tio n b e tw e e n d y e in g an d c h e m is try , a n d in c o n s e q u e n c e p la c e d th e a r t o f d y e in g o n a m o re s y s te m a tic a n d sc ie n tific b asis. T h e d isco v ery ' o f th e v a r io u s c o a l t a r d y e s le d to th e in tr o d u c tio n o f a w id e ra n g e o f co lo rs, m a n y to n e s a n d sh ad es o f w h ic h w e re h ith e r to u n k n o w n a n d u n o b ta in a b le in d y e in g . I t a lso re su lte d in th e in tro d u c tio n o f m a n y fa s t co lo rs, fa r e xc ee d in g th e n a tu r a l d y e s tu ffs in th is re sp e c t. I t g a v e rise to th e p o ssi
b ilitie s o f m a n y n e w e ffe c ts a n d easier, c h e a p e r a n d sim p le r p ro cesses o f d y e in g . In fa c t , th e g e n e ra l m e th o d s o f d j'e in g soon b e c a m e sta n d a r d iz e d to a fe w d e fin ite p ro cesses, w it h th e re su lt t h a t th e a r t o f d y e in g b e c a m e w 'id ely d isse m in a te d a m o n g th e te x tile m ills. I t w a s n o lo n g e r a s e c re t an d m y s te r io u s a r t j e a l
o u s ly g u a r d e d b y th e m em b e rs o f its g u ild , b u t b e cam e a n op en p ro fessio n .
I t w a s n o t lo n g b e fo re th e c o a l ta r d y e s a lm o s t e n tire ly r e p la c e d th e c ru d e r v e g e ta b le c o lo r in g m a tte r s . T h is w a s n o t o n ly d u e t o th e fa c t t h a t th e s y n t h e t ic d y e s c o u ld b e p ro d u ce d ch e a p e r a n d c o u ld b e a p p lie d m o re s im p ly a n d c o n v e n ie n tly , b u t w a s a lso b e c a u se m o s t o f th e v e g e t a b le d y e s w e re o f a n in fe rio r q u a lit y a s c o m p a r e d w ith th e c o a l t a r p ro d u c ts . In th e firs t p la c e , th e v e g e ta b le d y e s w e re fa r fro m p u re c o lo rin g m a tte r s ; th e y c o n s is te d p r in c ip a lly o f w o o d e x tr a c ts , an d c o n ta in e d , b e sid es th e a c tu a l c o lo r in g m a tte r s , m a n y o th e r e x t r a c t iv e s u b sta n c e s, su ch a s tan n in s, su g a rs, resin s, a n d p e c tin o u s b o d ies o f a n o n d e s c r ip t c h a ra c te r. I t w a s a very- c o s t ly p ro cee d in g to iso la te th e p u re c o lo r in g m a tte r fr o m th es e c o m p le x v e g e ta b le e x tr a c ts ; in fa c t, in m o s t ca se s it w a s c o m m e r c ia lly im p o ssib le. O n th is a c c o u n t, th e c o lo r s g iv e n b y m o s t v e g e ta b le d y e s w e re m o re o r less im p u re a n d n o t c le a r in to n e ; t h e y w e re a lso lia b le t o b e q u ite v a r ia b le in d iffe re n t lo ts o f th e e x tr a c ts . In th e se co n d p la ce, th ere a r c o n ly a few o f th e v e g e t a b le d y e s w h ic h m a y b e c la sse d
a s r e a lly fa s t co lo rs in th e m o d e rn sen se o f th e te rm . In d ig o wra s n o d o u b t th e fa s te s t co lo r, an d s till re p res en ts th e sta n d a r d fo r c o m p a r iso n . L o g w o o d , w h ic h w a s o n ce u n iv e r s a lly e m p lo y e d fo r th e d y e in g o f b la c k on a ll cla sses o f fa b ric s , c o u ld b e e m p lo y e d fo r th e d y e in g o f co lo rs fa s t to w a s h in g , b u t w a s n o t e s p e c ia lly fa s t to lig h t an d e x p o su re to w e a th e r . B e fo r e th e in tr o d u c tio n o f th e fa s t co a l t a r b la c k s , th o se o f u s w h o a re o ld e n o u g h c a n w ell re m em b e r th a t o u r b la c k c o a ts h ad a t e n d e n c y to tu r n to a r u s t y fa d e d c o lo r ; th is w a s b e c a u se lo g w o o d w a s th e d y e s tu ff e m p lo y e d . A t th e p res en t t im e th is d e fe c t is v e r y seld o m n o tic e d e v e n w ith th e c h e a p e r g r a d e s o f m a te ria l, as th e a liz a r in e b la c k s e m p lo y e d fo r th is p u rp o se a re e m in e n tly fa s t. F u s t ic w a s a n o th e r m u ch u sed d y e w o o d fo r y e llo w a n d b ro w n s, an d th is c a n n o t be cla sse d as a fa s t d y e a t a ll; in fa c t, h a r d ly a n y o f th e m a n y y e llo w a n d b ro w n v e g e ta b le d y e s h a v e a n y re m a r k a b le d eg re e o f fa stn es s. A m o n g th e red c o lo rs w e h a d m a d d e r an d c o c h in e a l as th e p r in c ip a l re p r e s e n ta tiv e s . M a d d e r w a s v e r y fa s t, b e in g u sed fo r th e p ro d u c tio n o f th e w e ll-k n o w n tu r k e y - r e d ; b u t th e c o lo rin g m a tte r o f m a d d e r is a liza rin e re d a n d in th e v e g e ta b le e x t r a c t it is in a r a th e r im p u re co n d itio n , b e in g m ixe d w ith o th e r e x t r a c t iv e m a tte r s , so t h a t w h e n th is c o lo r in g p rin cip le , a liza rin e red , w a s p rep ared s y n t h e t ic a lly in th e p u re co n d itio n fro m co a l- ta r , it v e r y r a p id ly re p la c e d th e c ru d e m a d d e r e x t r a c t . C o c h in e a l w a s u sed v e r y la r g e ly fo r th e d y e in g o f s c a r le ts on w o o le n m a te ria ls a n d w o u ld b e c la sse d a s a fa ir ly fa s t co lo r. T h e c o a l ta r a c id sc a rle ts, w h ich w ere first in tro d u c e d , w e re n o t a s fa s t as co c h in e a l, a n d th o u g h t h e y w ere c h e a p e r a n d e a s ie r to a p p ly an d d isp la c e d c o c h in e a l to a v e r y la rg e e x te n t, n e v e rth e le s s th is la t te r d y e h eld a n im p o r ta n t p o s itio n fo r th e d y e in g o f h ig h c la s s a n d fa s t s c a rle ts fo r a lo n g tim e . W h e n th e a n th r a c e n e an d c h ro m e s c a rle ts , h o w e v e r, w e re p rep ared fr o m c o a l ta r , a n d p r o v e d to b e e v e n fa s te r th a n c o c h in e a l, th is d y e s tu ff g r a d u a lly fell in to d isu se. T h e r e w a s a lso a lo n g lis t o f red d y e w o o d s , b u t a ll o f th ese w e re o f in fe rio r fa s tn e s s a s c o m p a r e d w it h th e c o a l ta r d y e s an d a t p res en t are n o lo n g e r used. A r c h il a n d its d ried e x tr a c t, c u d b e a r, w e re o n ce v e r y e x te n s iv e ly e m p lo y e d as th e b a sis o f fa s t p u rp lish red a n d red d ish b ro w n c o lo r s o n w o o l an d s ilk m a te ria ls. I t w a s a lso u sed as a b o tto m c o lo r 011 w oo!
fo r th e d y e in g o f h e a v y sh a d e s o f in d ig o , g iv in g a ric h , d eep , a n d b lo o m y co lo r. A r c h il w a s p rep ared fro m th e e x t r a c t o f a c e r ta in sp e cie s o f p a r a s itic a l p la n t g ro w th to b e fo u n d p r in c ip a lly a lo n g th e se a -c o a sts o f su b tr o p ic a l c o u n trie s. E n o r m o u s q u a n titie s o f it w e re on ce, o b ta in e d from th e w e s te rn c o a s t o f lo w e r C a lifo r n ia . T h e c o lo r in g m a t t e r d id n o t e x is t r e a d y fo r m e d in th e p la n t e x tr a c t b u t h ad to b e d e v e lo p e d b y a series o f c h e m ic a l processes. A la rg e n u m b e r o f fa s t b ro w n c o lo r in g m a tte r s , h o w ev e r, h a v e b een p rep are d fro m co a l t a r a n d h a v e a lm o s t e n tir e ly d isp la c e d a rch il p r e p a ra tio n s in th is c o u n tr y , a t le a st.
EASE OK DYEING COTTON WITH SYNTHETIC DYES A s e v e r y on e k n o w s , th e fa te o f th e o th e r v e g e ta b le d y e s soon o v e r to o k in d ig o , a t le a s t a s fa r a s its n a tu ra l so u rce w a s c o n ce rn e d , a n d th is d y e s tu ff is n o w a lm o s t e x c lu s iv e ly m ad e s y n th e t ic a lly fro m co a l ta r . T h e in tr o d u c tio n o f o th e r s y n t h e t ic d y e s o f th e in d ig o cla ss a n d k n o w n a s th e " v a t ” d y e s h a s g r e a t ly ra ise d th e q u a lit y o f d y e d c o tto n m a te ria ls. T h e d y e in g o f c o tto n w ith th e o ld v e g e ta b le d y e s w a s a lw a y s a r a th e r d iffic u lt m a tte r a s c o m p a red w ith th e d y e in g o f w o o l or silk . T h is w a s d u e to th e r e la t iv e ly in e rt c h a r a c te r o f th e c o tto n fib e r to w a r d s th e c o lo rin g m a tte rs , a n d a lso to th e fa c t t h a t c o tto n c o u ld n o t be m o rd a n te d w ith m e ta llic s a lts w ith th e sa m e re a d in e ss as a n im a l fib e r; c o n s e q u e n tly , th e p ro cesses o f d y e in g c o tto n a n d th e co lo rs o b ta in a b le w e re r a th e r lim ite d , w h ic h , o f c o u rse , g r e a t ly re stric te d th e u se o f c o tto n m a te ria ls . T h e d is c o v e r y o f th e d ire c t c o tto n d y e s d e r iv e d fro m c o a l ta r o p en ed u p a n e w field fo r c o tto n d y e in g . T h o u g h th e s e d y e s y ie ld e d a v e r y w id e ra n g e o f d e a r a n d b e a u tifu l sh ad e s, th e y d id n o t p ossess a n y g r e a t d eg re e o f fa stn e s s, a n d c o n s e q u e n tly c o u ld n o t b e e m p lo y e d 011 c o tto n fa b ric s t h a t re q u ire d m u ch w a s h in g a n d la u n d e rin g .
944
T H E J O U R N A L O F I N D U S T R I A L A N D E N G I N E E R I N G C H E M I S T R Y V ol. 6, No. n
T h is s till k e p t c o lo r e d c o tto n g o o d s in a ra th e r re s tr ic te d an d c h e a p c la ss. T h e d is c o v e r y o f th e fa s t v a t d y e s , h o w e v e r , w h ic h a r e e m in e n tly a d a p te d t o th e d y e in g o f c o tto n , o p e n e d u p a n e w e r a fo r t h e u se a n d m a n u fa c tu r e o f c o lo re d c o tto n fa b ric s . W it h th e s e d y e s c o tto n c a n b e d y e d in a ll m a n n e r o f b e a u tifu l sh ad e s, a n d th e c o lo rs a re a s p e rm a n e n t a lm o s t a s th e fib e r itse lf. S o r e m a r k a b ly f a s t a re th e s e co lo rs t h a t t h e y w ith s ta n d th e b le a c h in g a c tio n o f h y p o c h lo r ite s a n d se v ere w a s h in g a n d la u n d e rin g . I t is on th is a c c o u n t t h a t w e c a n n o w m a n u fa c tu r e c o lo r e d c o tto n fa b r ic s fo r d ress g o o d s, sh irtin g s , e tc ., t h a t w ill re s is t th e s tro n g c h e m ic a ls e m p lo y e d in m o d e m la u n d r y m e th o d s. I t is a lso p o ssib le to a d o p t m a n y n e w s t y le s in th e m a n u fa c tu r e o f th ese fa b ric s . F o r in s ta n c e , c lo th m a y b e w o v e n fr o m p a r t ly d y e d a n d p a r t ly u n d y e d y a r n s , a n d th e n b le a c h e d in th e p ie ce , th e co lo r e d y a r n s n o t b e in g a ffe c te d b y th e b le a c h in g . T h e s e im p r o v e m e n ts in th e d y e in g o f c o tto n h a v e le d t o a g r e a t d e v e lo p m e n t in c o tto n m a n u fa c tu r e , a n d c o tto n fa b r ic s a re b e in g e m p lo y e d m o re a n d m o re e x t e n s iv e ly in a p p a re l a n d o th e r lin e s o f d o m e s tic e c o n o m y .
D y e s , h o w e v e r , a re m o re e x te n s iv e ly e m p lo y e d o n w o o le n m a te r ia ls , a n d th e g r e a t b u lk o f th e d y e s tu ffs m a n u fa c tu r e d g o in to th is in d u s tr y . T h is c o n d itio n re s u lts fr o m a v e r y sim p le f a c t — w o o len m a te r ia ls c a n n o t b e w a s h e d a n d la u n d e r e d w it h t h e sa m e re a d in e ss a n d im p u n ity as c o tto n g o o d s. I f w e w a s h e d o u r w o o le n c lo th e s, fo r in s ta n c e , in th e m a n n e r w e d o o u r c o tto n on es, t h e y w o u ld s h rin k u p a n d o th e r w is e b e s a d ly in ju re d . T h e re fo r e , a s I h a v e a lr e a d y p o in te d o u t, i t is in c o n v e n ie n t to h a v e u n d y e d w o o le n c lo th e s — t h e y b e c o m e so iled to o e a s ily . T h e r e fo r e , p r a c t ic a lly a ll o f o u r w o o le n c lo th in g fa b r ic s are d y e d , a n d g e n e r a lly in r a th e r d a r k co lo rs, a n d th is re q u ire s a la rg e q u a n t it y o f d y e s tu ff. F u r th e r m o re , th e c a r p e t a n d r u g in d u s tr y re q u ire s an e n o rm o u s q u a n t it y o f w o o le n m a te ria l, a n d a ll o f th is h a s t o b e d y e d , fo r a g a in it is n o t p r a c tic a l to u se u n d y e d c a rp e ts .
T h e w o o le n in d u s tr y u ses la rg e q u a n titie s o f th e a cid d y e s a n d th e a n th r a c e n e a n d a liz a rin e co lo rs. I n d ig o is a lso v e r y e x te n s iv e ly u se d , to g e th e r w it h a lim ite d n u m b e r o f th e o th e r fa s t v a t d y e s . M o s t o f th e s e , h o w e v e r , a re n o t as a d a p ta b le to w o o l a s t o c o tto n b y rea so n o f th e f a c t t h a t t h e y a re e m p lo y e d in s tr o n g ly a lk a lin e s o lu tio n , w h ic h is n o t a g o o d th in g to u se in c o n n e c tio n w ith th e w o o l fib e r.
GREAT VARIETY OF DYES NEEDED
T h e te x tile in d u s tr y , a s y o u a ll k n o w , is a v e r y b ro a d o n e an d its p r o d u c ts g o in to a lm o s t e v e r y o th e r lin e o f in d u s tr y . G e n e r a lly s p e a k in g , te x tile s a re m o s t o fte n re g a rd e d a s lim ite d to m a te r ia ls w o v e n fo r c lo th in g a n d h o u se h o ld a n d d o m e s tic e c o n o m y . B u t th e te rm is r e a lly m u c h m o re e x te n s iv e ; fo r in sta n ce , te x tile s a re u se d fo r t h e m a n u fa c tu r e o f a u to m o b ile tire s , ro p es, a n d c o rd a g e , s a il-c lo th , a w n in g s , w in d o w sh ad e s, in s u la tin g fa b r ic s in e le c tr ic a l a p p a r a tu s , c lo th fo r b o o k b in d in g , a n d a th o u s a n d o th e r u ses. T h e e x t e n t to w h ic h d y e s tu ils a re e m p lo y e d a n d th e c h a r a c te r o f th es e re q u ire m e n ts, w ill, o f co u rse, d e p e n d o n t h e n a tu r e o f th e te x tile a n d th e u se to w h ic h i t is to b e p u t. F a b r ic s u sed fo r u n d e rw e a r, fo r in s ta n c e , a re g e n e ra lly n o t d y e d ; c o t t o n h o s ie r y is c h ie fly d y e d b la c k , t o a le s s e r d eg re e b ro w n , a n d t o a v e r y s m a ll e x te n t in co lo rs, w h ile s ilk h o s ie ry is d y e d in a ll m a n n e r o f co lo rs. I t w o u ld b e fo o lish to d y e fa b r ic s fo r a u to m o b ile tires, w h erea s fa b r ic s fo r w in d o w sh ad e s m u s t n e a r ly a lw a y s b e d y e d , a n d w it h co lo rs o f e x c e p tio n a b le fa s tn e s s to lig h t, o th e r q u a litie s o f fa stn es s, su ch a s w a s h in g , b e in g d isre g a rd e d a s u n e s se n tia l. A n d so it go es, th e w id e d iv e r s it y o f fa b ric s le a d s to a w id e d iv e r s it y o f c o lo r re q u ire m e n ts b o th a s t o sh a d e a n d fa stn e s s. O n th is a c c o u n t, th ere m u s t b e a w id e d iv e r s it y o f d y e s tu ffs to t a k e c a r e o f th e v a r ie d d em a n d s o f th e te x tile in d u s tr y , a n d , in co n se q u e n ce , it h a s b e en fo u n d im p o ssib le t o re d u c e th e m a n u fa c tu r e o f d y e s tu ffs to a fe w s ta n d a r d iz e d a n d s ta p le p r o d u c ts . I n a n y d iscu ssio n r e la t in g to th e e s ta b lis h m e n t o f a la rg e A m e r ic a n d y e s tu ff in d u s tr y
th is fa c t m u s t b e b o rn e in m in d . I t m u s t b e p re p a re d to ta k e c a re o f th e m a n u fa c tu r e o f r e la t iv e ly s m a ll q u a n titie s o f th is, th a t , a n d th e o th e r d y e s tu ff fo r so m e p a r tic u la r p u rp o se and q u a lit y o f co lo r.
MANUFACTURE OF D YES BY THE TEX TIL E INDUSTRY T h e r e h a s b e e n o f la t e a g o o d d e a l o f t a lk a s t o t h e fe a s ib ility o f th e te x tile in d u s tr y its e lf b e c o m in g in te r e s te d d ir e c t ly in th e m a n u fa c tu r e o f d y e s tu ffs a n d , c o n s e q u e n tly , I h a v e in te rv ie w e d n u m e ro u s t e x tile m en 011 th is s u b je c t w it h th e v ie w o f o b ta in in g a b r o a d o p in io n o f t h e m a tte r . T h e g e n e ra l fe e lin g , h o w ev e r, is t h a t th e d y e s tu f f in d u s tr y is e n tir e ly s e p a r a te a n d d is tin c t fr o m th e g e n e ra l t e x t ile in d u s tr y its e lf; th e m a n u fa c tu r e o f d y es is in r e a lit y a h ig h ly d e v e lo p e d c h e m ic a l e n te rp rise , a n d th e a v e r a g e te x tile m a n u fa c tu r e r h a s 110 m o re d esire t o g o in to th e m a n u fa c tu r e o f d y e s tu ffs t h a n h e h a s o f g o in g in to th e b u sin ess o f m in in g c o a l o r m a k in g ste e l. T h e d y e s tu f f m a n u fa c tu r e r m u s t b e p r e p a re d t o s ta n d on h is o w n fe e t a n d d e v e lo p h is in d u s tr y th r o u g h h is o w n e n e r g y a n d c a p it a l; lie m u s t m e e t th e c o n d itio n s w h ic h c o n fr o n t h im (as m u s t e v e r y o th e r m a n u fa c tu re r).
W h e n th e E u ro p e a n w a r b r o k e o u t a n d th e re g u la r sh ip m e n ts o f d y e s tu ffs w e re c u t o ff fro m th is c o u n tr y , t h e t e x tile tr a d e w as th r o w n in to a v e r y e x c ite d c o n d itio n . M o s t o f th e m ills, how-:
e v e r , h a d s e v e r a l m o n th s ’ s u p p ly o f d y e s tu ffs o n h a n d a n d th is, to g e th e r w ith w h a t t h e y h a v e b e e n a b le t o p ic k u p in th e m a rk e t, h a s k e p t th e m g o in g r a th e r s a t is fa c t o r ily u p t o th e p r e s e n t tim e.
T h e r e h a v e a lso b e e n so m e fres h sh ip m e n ts fr o m R o t t e r d a m to g iv e a fu r th e r s u p p ly to a n o w p r a c t ic a lly d e p ic te d m a rk e t.
I f th e s e sh ip m e n ts c a n b e m a in ta in e d w it h m o re o r less r e g u la r ity d u r in g th e p e rio d o f w a r , th e r e is 110 d o u b t b u t t h a t o u r te x tile in d u s tr ie s m a y b e m a in ta in e d w it h o u t a n y se rio u s s e tb a c k . T h e r e w ill, n o d o u b t, b e s p e c ia l c a se s w h e r e th e n e c e s s a r y s u it a b le d y e s tu ffs c a n n o t b e o b ta in e d , a n d th is w ill n e c e s s ita te a re
a d ju s tm e n t o f s t y le s t o a c e r ta in e x te n t. I f, h o w e v e r, t h e s h ip m e n ts o f d y e s tu ffs fr o m G e r m a n y c a n n o t b e b r o u g h t th ro u g h , o r if th e m a n u fa c tu re o f th e s e d y e s is se r io u s ly in te rfe re d w ith s o t h a t w e c a n n o t o b ta in th e m a t a ll, th e n th e t e x tile in d u strie s h e re w ill, o f c o u rse , b e u n d e r th e n e c e s s ity o f p u t t in g u n d y e d g o o d s u p o n th e m a r k e t. T h is w o u ld b e a c o n s id e ra b le h a rd sh ip , fo r th er e is « 0 d o u b t b u t t h a t th e d em a n d fo r su ch g o o d s w o u ld fa ll fa r b e lo w th e n o rm a l, a n d fu rth e rm o re s a t is fa c t o r y p riccs c o u ld n o t b e o b ta in e d .
MEETING PR ESENT DEMAND FOR DYES
I n th is e v e n t th er e a r c t w o p o s sib ilitie s to c o n sid e r; (1) T o r e v iv e th e u se o f th e v e g e t a b le d y e s t o t a k e th e p la c e o f th e G e r m a n s y n t h e t ic co lo r s; (2) to m a n u fa c tu r e th e re q u ire d d y e s tu ffs in th is c o u n tr y . T h e fir s t a lte r n a tiv e d o e s n o t o ffe r m u c h h o p e e x c e p t in a m in o r w a y . I n t h e fir s t p la c e , i t w o u ld re q u ire a c o n s id e ra b le tim e t o g e t to g e th e r th e n e c e s s a r y r a w d y e w o o d s fr o m th e c o u n trie s in w h ic h t h e y g r o w ; th e n t h e c o lo r in g m a tte rs w o u ld h a v e to b e e x tr a c te d a n d p r o p e r ly tr e a te d in o rd e r to d e v e lo p a s a tis fa c t o r y s tr e n g th a n d q u a lit y , a n d in a d d itio n to a ll th is , th e r e w o u ld h a v e t o b e a c o n s id e ra b le r e a d ju s tm e n t o f c o n d itio n s a n d u sag e s in th e d y e h o u s e b e fo r e t h e n a tu r a l co lo rin g m a tte r s c o u ld b e p r o p e r ly u tiliz e d to g iv e s a t is fa c t o r y sh ad es.
E v e n th e n , th e r e w o u ld b e a g r e a t m a n y c o lo rs w h ic h c o u ld n o t b e o b ta in e d w ith th e s e n a tu r a l d y e s tu ffs , a n d a g r e a t m a n y o f o u r f a s t c o lo r s c o u ld n o t b e o b ta in e d a t a ll. T h e r e a re som e cases, i t is tr u e , w h e re n a tu r a l d y e s w o u ld b e r e a d ily a v a ila b le a n d c o u ld b e u sed as. s u b s titu te s fo r so m e o f t h e c o a l-ta r colors.
T h e o u t p u t o f lo g w o o d c o u ld , n o d o u b t, b e c o n s id e r a b ly in cre a se d in a s h o r t tim e , a n d th is c o u ld b e u tiliz e d fo r b la c k s on w o o l an d c o tto n g o o d s, th o u g h fa s tn e s s o f c o lo r w o u ld , o f c o u rse , h a v e t o be sa c rific e d . T h e r e a re la r g e q u a n titie s o f a rc h il w h ic h c o u ld also b e b r o u g h t in to use on s h o rt n o tic e , a n d th is c o u ld b e e m p lo y e d in m a n y c a se s w ith m u c h s a tis fa c tio n in w o o l d y e in g a n d c a r p e t d y e in g fo r th e p r o d u c tio n o f re d s a n d b ro w n s. T h e r e is p r o b a b ly
q u ite a s u p p ly o f y e llo w d y e w o o d s w h ic h c o u ld b e m a d e a v a il
a b le in a s h o r t tim e . W it h in d ig o , h o w e v e r, it is n o t p r o b a b le t h a t th e p r o d u c tio n c o u ld b e m u c h in cre a se d fo r s e v e r a l y e a r s , a s th is re q u ire s th e c a r e fu l p la n tin g , c u lt iv a t io n a n d h a r v e s tin g o f cro p s.
T h e o th e r a lte r n a tiv e o p en t o u s is th e m a n u fa c tu r e o f d y e - s tu ffs in th is c o u n t r y 011 a sc a le s u ffic ie n t to t a k e c a re o f o u r n eed s, b o th w it h r e s p c c t to a m o u n t a n d k in d o f d yestulT. T h e re is a lr e a d y a fa ir p r o d u c tio n o f d y e s tu ffs in th is c o u n tr y , a n d th e r e is n o d o u b t b u t w h a t th is in d u s tr y c o u ld b e s a tis fa c to r ily d e v e lo p e d u n d e r p r o p e r c o n d itio n s . I t w ill, h o w e v e r , re q u ire tim e, o rg a n iz e d te c h n ic a l e ffo r t, a n d c a p ita l, a n d I a m su re w e h a v e a ll th re e o f th e s e c o m m o d itie s in th is c o u n tr y , to g e th e r w it h th e o th e r n e c e s s a r y ra w m a te r ia ls fo r th e p r o d u c tio n o f c o a l-ta r co lo rs. B u t I le a v e th e d isc u ssio n o f th is fe a tu r e o f th e c a se to M r . S to n e , w h o , b e in g a m a n u fa c tu r e r o f d y e s tu ffs , c a n te ll y o u a ll a b o u t th e p o s sib ilitie s o f th is in d u s tr y .
PROBLEM TO B E SOLVED B Y CHEMISTS
I n c lo sin g , I w o u ld s a y t h a t t h e t e x t ile in d u s tr ie s o f th is c o u n t r y a re v e r y d e p e n d e n t o n a p r o p e r s u p p ly o f dyestufTs, an d I a m s u re t h e te x tile m a n u fa c tu r e r s w o u ld h e a r t ily w e lc o m e th e firm a n d p e rm a n e n t e s ta b lis h m e n t o f a d y e s tu ff in d u s tr y in th is c o u n tr y , so t h a t w e w o u ld b e se lf-c o n ta in e d a n d n o t d e p e n d e n t on fo r e ig n c o u n trie s. H o w e v e r , t h e y fe e l t h a t th is d y e s tu ff in d u s tr y m u s t b e d e v e lo p e d in d e p e n d e n t o f th e m s e lv e s , and w h ile t h e y a re w illin g to g iv e it a ll le g itim a te s u p p o r t a n d o p p o r tu n ity , I d o u b t if t h e y a rc a t a ll in c lin e d to g ro w it a s a h o t h o u se p r o d u c t. T h e y b e lie v e t h a t t h e d y e s tu f f in d u s tr y c a n b e e s ta b lis h e d h e re b a se d on so u n d e c o n o m ic p rin cip les. T h e o p p o r t u n it y is h e re a n d o u r c h e m ic a l m a n u fa c tu r e rs sh o u ld lo se n o tim e in t a k in g a d v a n t a g e o f it. T h e a p p e a l o f th e te x tile in d u s tr y to t h e c h e m is t a t p r e s e n t is: " W e n eed d y e s tu ffs , so g e t b u s y a n d m a k e th e m ; d o n 't h em a n d h a w , a n d m a k e excu ses, b u t g e t r ig h t o n th e j o b .”
5 0 Ea s t 4 1s t St., Ne w Yo r k Cit y
C A M P A I G N F O R A M E R I C A N D Y E S T U F F I N D U S T R Y B y Ar t h u r Pr il l,
T h e te c h n ic a l a n d co m m e rc ia l a s p e c ts o f th e c a m p a ig n fo r an A m e r ic a n d y e s tu f f in d u s tr y a re 011 th is p r o g ra m a lr e a d y in b e tte r h a n d s t h a n m in e, b u t y o u m a y b e in te re s te d in th e p u b lic ity fe a tu r e s o f th e m o v e m e n t, fo r n o w a d a y s n o th in g o f m o m e n t t h a t e ffe c ts t h e g e n e ra l p u b lic c a n b e a c c o m p lish e d e x c e p t b y m o ld in g p u b lic o p in io n .
Y o u w ill p e rh a p s p e r m it m e to s ta te a fu n d a m e n ta l p r o p o sitio n u p o n w h ic h re sts th e rea so n fo r so m e o f th e p u b lic ity w h ic h h a s b e e n g iv e n to th e c a m p a ig n fo r a n A m e r ic a n d y e s tu ff in d u s tr y . A n e w s p a p e r h a s twro fu n c tio n s, first, t o g a th e r, c o lla te a n d d is tr ib u te n e w s ; s e c o n d ly , to m a k e m en th in k . T h e l a t t e r o f th e s e fu n c tio n s is b y fa r th e m o re d iffic u lt to a cco m p lish , b u t c a n in a g iv e n in sta n c e b e o f th e h ig h e s t v a lu e .
T h e n e w s p a p e r m an h a s an a d v a n t a g e o f p o s itio n in re c e iv in g n e w s a t th e e a r lie s t p o s sib le m o m e n t. H e n c e , h e is in a p o s itio n to fo res ee c o m in g e v e n t s b e fo re th e g e n e ra l p u b lic o r so m e tim e s e v e n b e fo r e a s p e c ia l in d u s tr y g e ts a n y in k lin g o f su ch fu tu re tre n d .
N o w , if u n d e r su ch c irc u m s ta n c e s h e u ses h is k n o w le d g e to sh o w fu tu r e p o s s ib ilitie s to th e p a p e r ’s re a d e rs , h e w ill fin d u n b e lie v e rs , w e ll m e a n in g b u t o fte n s h o rt-s ig h te d . F u r th e r , if h e a d v o c a t e s a c h a n g e h e is c e r ta in to a ro u se th e e n m ity o f th e o ld s y s te m — h e n ce , th e n e ed o f a c a m p a ig n . W e a s k t w o fa r- r e a c h in g ch a n g e s, p a t e n t re v is io n a n d ta r iff a id . W h e n fo r e ig n e rs o b ta in U n c le S a m ’s p r o te c tio n fo r th e ir b ra in -w o rk , t h e y sh o u ld b e c o m p e lle d t o u se s u c h p r o te c tiv e id e as, in p a rt, a t le a s t, fo r t h e b e n e fit o f U n c le S a m ’s c itiz e n s . A g a in , if w e se e k A m e r ic a n c a p it a l to l a y o u t fu n d s fo r th e c o n s tr u c tio n o f d y e s tu f f fa c to r ie s , th is c a p ita l h a s a rig h t to d em a n d t h a t fo r
N o v., 1914 T H E J O U R N A L O F I N D U S T R I A L
e ig n c o m p e titio n b e k e p t o u t o f th e c o u n tr y u n til t h e w h o le in d u s tr y h a s o b ta in e d a firm fo o tin g .
I n th e c a se o f A m e r ic a n d y e s tu ffs su ch a c a m p a ig n sh o u ld n o t r e a lly b e n ecessary'. A th re e -fo ld g e n iu s w h o f u lly g ra sp e d t h e te c h n ic a l a s w e ll as th e c o m m e rc ia l a s p e c ts o f th e c o a l-ta r s itu a t io n a n d w h o a lso p o ssessed rh e to r ic a l a n d lit e r a r y a b i l i t y to p la c e th e m a t t e r a d e q u a te ly b e fo re a ll in te re s te d , w o u ld lo g ic a lly c o n v in c e th e m a n d m o v e th e m to a c t.
A s n o d e c is iv e a c tio n fo r th e e s ta b lis h m e n t o f a n A m e r ic a n d y e s tu f f in d u s tr y h a s a s y e t b e e n ta k e n , it is e v id e n t th a t th is th re e-sid e d g e n iu s h a s n o t y e t a p p e a r e d , b u t th e p o s s ib ility o f u n ite d a c tio n b y su ch m en a s c o m p o se th e A m erica n Ch em ical Society— y o u m e n h e re to n ig h t c o u ld w a g e th is c a m p a ig n w ith c e r t a in t y o f su ccess. •
T h e q u e s tio n w h ic h arise s in y o u r m in d is, S h o u ld y o u t a k e i t u p a n d t a k e it u p n o t m e r e ly in a c a d e m ic m a n n er, b u t sh o u ld y o u p u t in to th is c a m p a ig n th a t p r a c tic a l e ffo r t a n d v it a l fo rce w h ic h is e sse n tia l to v ic t o r y ? T h e m o s t a p p a r e n t in c e n tiv e is th e f a c t t h a t c e r ta in b ra n c h e s o f t h e t e x tile tr a d e a re t o d a y s la c k e n in g fo r w a n t o f s u ita b le d y e s tu ffs . N o t o n ly a rc m ills h a m p e re d in p ro d u c tio n , b u t h u m a n b e in g s a re s u ffe r in g fo r
T h e q u e s tio n w h ic h arise s in y o u r m in d is, S h o u ld y o u t a k e i t u p a n d t a k e it u p n o t m e r e ly in a c a d e m ic m a n n er, b u t sh o u ld y o u p u t in to th is c a m p a ig n th a t p r a c tic a l e ffo r t a n d v it a l fo rce w h ic h is e sse n tia l to v ic t o r y ? T h e m o s t a p p a r e n t in c e n tiv e is th e f a c t t h a t c e r ta in b ra n c h e s o f t h e t e x tile tr a d e a re t o d a y s la c k e n in g fo r w a n t o f s u ita b le d y e s tu ffs . N o t o n ly a rc m ills h a m p e re d in p ro d u c tio n , b u t h u m a n b e in g s a re s u ffe r in g fo r