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Towards a better simulation of sea states for modelling of coastal structures

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Academic year: 2021

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Abstract

TOWARDS A BE'l'T'BR SIMULATION CI!' SEA STATES FOR IIlDELLING CI!' COASTAL S"l'RUC'l'ORBS

by E .. P .. D.. Mansard

In the last fifteen years the techniques of wave generation 'have advanced to a great extent that it is row possible to exercise controls, on parameters such as wave grouping, wave asymmetries. etc .. , during the

simulation process.. This paper describes some of these techniques that

were developed at the National Research Council of Canada, towards a

better understanding of Nature and its reproduction.. Emphasis is given

to the non-linearities associated with shallow water waves and the difficulties encountered in depth limited situations due to complex shoaling mechanism.

Au cours des 15 derni~res ann~es les m~thodes de 9~n~ration des vagues

ant tellement progress~ qu'il est maintenant possbile de contrOler des

param~tres comme Ie groupement des vagues, les asym~tries des vagues,

etc .. , pendant Ie processus de simulation.. Cette ~tude d~crit certaines

des m~thodes mises au point au Conseil national de recherches du Canada

pour une meilleure compr~hension de la nature et sa reproduction plus

fid~le" L'emphase a ~t~ plac~e sur les non-lin~arit~s associ~es aux

vagues en eaux peu profondes et sur les difficult~s que pose Ie complexe

m~canisme de la diminution des profondeurs en situations de profondeur restreinte"

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